276

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

277

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

It's a vertical flange, with the downward turning deck lip on the outside.  Unfortunately it's riveted.  Then they caked some putty in there and thats it.  Nothing special, I'd rather see an inward facing flange, thru bolted.  Can't have it all but with my glasswork it's stronger and probably 99.98% watertite now...

278

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Only other disadvantage to the Origo is if you run them hot for a while, they apparently tend to catch on fire.  I've never seen this myself, don't quite really understand how it would actually happen, and I've only heard first hand of 2 instances, (theres a few out there on the internet tho) and I'm cleaning up from one of them. I'll stick with the Origo (propane would just loooove that deep bilge).  That and I'm a bit backwards and already have a charcoal bbq for the boat.  ~1500 hours left of work to do, but I already have the bbq..........  Good thing I've got a beer fridge in the garage cause the icebox in the boat is still in peices....

279

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

center seam running the length of the boat?  probably a "parting line" from where they separated the mold - similar to what you see on plastic injection molded or die cast metal parts. 
-or-
a seam along the hull up and down?  hmmmm......

280

(0 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

2 yanmar 1gm10's, with saildrives separately listed (no good for us contessa folks anyway....) are on ebay.  2 days left or so.  They'd be candidates for rebuilds, but if anyone's looking for an engine on a budget you likely couldn't go wrong...  just go to ebay and search for yanmar......  cheers all

maybe it's time to think about switching marinas??   it seems that prices are skyrocketing in the 1000 islands area, with less and less reception to sailboats, smaller ones in particular....  i guess thats because we do most of our work ourselves, and they make nothing on serving engines, outdrives, etc....  who knows....

282

(24 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

twofootitis should really be cured with at least five feet.  overmedication will most likely prevent a relapse in this conditon for a few more years.....

283

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Leave the fuel tank outside and high - no need for a lift pump to get the fuel to the engine's lift pump (Yanmar 1gm10 lift pump has a suction head of some 3 inches or so....  not enough by itself).  Also, if you're unfortunate enough to have to remove the tank, its easily done with little or no mess and diesel smell below.  You can take a Tempo 3 or 6 gallon plastic tank and make a nice "semi-permanent" installation by building a proper shelf, fitting a vent (and a deck fill if you so desire, but the less holes you have in the deck the better) and strapping the sucker down with 2" webbing.  You could do the same with an alum or SS tank as well, but $$.........  When she has to come out, and it's not if, it's far easier dealing with diesel if it isn't down below.....  If you're going to put a tank below put a water tank down there.......

284

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

With a bit of research you can sub some automobile or non marine (agriculture, etc) parts.  For instance, all of you out there with Yanmars would LOVE to know what the NAPA filter number is.  Well, NAPA filters are made by Wix, which is one of the best quality filters out there (no paper end caps like Fram, which is why I won't give out the Fram number).  The best kept secret in the world is:  1334.  That's right.  So, depending on where you go, you can get a Wix 51334 or a Napa 21334 (same filter).  The Yanmar filters are probably made by Wix, but I don't have any Yanmar ones, and don't feel like spending the 18 bucks for one just to cut it a apart.

285

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

skippert:

if you're seriously going to look at the boat, bring a moisture meter and a friend or two who know boats real well.  they'll pick up on what you don't know, and what each other misses.

moisture in the decks:  this is what i got.  bring a moisture meter, and possibly even remove one thru deck fitting on either side to see the state of the coring.  if it's wet, see my pictures.  this is what you've got on your hands.  on the inside, check for tracers - water marks dripping down the chainplates.

the springiness and crunch in the foredeck is from delamination.  rather non-lamination, because the fiberglass decking was never properly bonded to the plywood coring.  i don't have any pictures of mine, but i'd say that it was only about 10-15% bonded (plywood to fiberglass) over the whole foredeck.  the boats always been like that, and always will unless you pull down the decking and rebond like me.  there's no sense in trying to fill with epoxy - you'd use probably 2 gallons and never get the thing to stick anyways.  my boat went to hawaii with decks like that, so..... 

as far as rot and mildew go, this isn't too bad.  the only wood in the boat is the bulkheads and cabinetry.  everything else is glass.  javex and scrubbrush.

the rig is probably original, so figure to replace at least the standing rigging.  sails?  who knows.  engine?  again - gotta go have a look. 

it's worth going to check out, even if it turns out to be a bomb, you've not wasted 2 hours of driving because you havae something to compare the next one too.  good luck...  cheers all

stef

286

(19 replies, posted in Cruising)

1)  55 hours in a day, and a 22 hour work week.  the rest of the time being devoted to finishing my boat.
2)  sun, sun, sun.  no rain, no snow, none of this -25oC crap.  this is work stoppage weather
3)  fiberglass that doesn't make you itchy when you grind.

come on santa, this isn't that all unreasonable......

could head down from oswego thru the canal to new york and head to bermuda from there.  it'd be a good start and a mini shakedown to cross lake ontario under sail, but lots elect to drop the mast kingston area and motor across the lake....  that way you can start mid mayish, and don't have to truck the boat at all......

she's a beautiful boat.  being a JR boat, you probably have solid decks, so disregard all my ranting about plywood.  i wish i would have totally known what i was getting myself into...  when you're done, it'll be the best contessa out there.  so's mine.  because if yours (mine, anyone's....) has weak points that you observe and fix, then damn near every other boat does.

as long as you get something in there before you go sailing....  just make sure that you've got something to load up in compression between the ceiling and the floor...  that and if you ever head off sailing i'll buy that trailer...  if i don't make one by then (that's #1 on the job list once i'm sailing....)

keep an eye on eBay for an engine...  i've seen more than a half dozen yanmar 1gm and 1gm10's come up for sale in the last year - varying from 15 years old never installed to ready for a rebuild....

Cody - did you buy that boat that was all apart and advertised on here a while ago?  The one with the nice trailer?  It probably has solid side decks - no wood.  Man that would have been nice....... 

Looks like a project like mine...  Just curious..  Cheers

290

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Wilcox Crittendon Imperial 51, or "Junior".  Many many many people replace these simple and beautiful (all cast!) units with a Brydon plastic POS because the new Brydon or Jabsco is cheaper than the rebuild kit for the Wilcox.  Damn near anything you try to toss into one of these, it'll flush it....

291

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Usualkly, in the crutch where you need your electronics most the conditions are not condusive to things working right (wet, rough, etc) or maybe you've got a halfassed electrical system that's ready to give up the ghost (lots, more like most, are...  seen em) There's more possibility for failure in the systems required to power fancy elecronics than there is of an experienced navigator forgetting how to find where they are. 

GPS and Radar should only be thought of as a tool, a backup, a means to verify that you are where you think you are.  Because when the lights go out, you've got nothing.  They're great toys, but cannot be relied upon 100%.

292

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Bingo!  Ditch the electronics and 100 gallon fuel tank, and see how well some of these cruisers do.  Not that I could do any better, cause I havn't yet, but at least I'm preparing myself better...  And I've got a bit of sailing experience (my younger brother learned to walk on my folk's first boat)

The lady I bought my boat from - her first real sail on anything other than a Byte or a Laser II or circumnavigating Lake Champlain on a Hobie was when she took Untold Want from New York to Bermuda.  Some people are just cut out for it, some aren't.  Only way to find out is to try it.  She continued thru the Caribbean, Panama, Hawaii.  Guess she learned quick.  And trust me, you've seen the pics of my boat.  As rough as it was, it still took good care of her, but I'd be reluctant to head out into Lake Ontario in a big wind with my boat "as it was".

Long and short of it don't let anyone discourage you.  A bit of attitude is a good thing, but there is always someone out there who's done more, knows better, and is more experienced than you.  This goes for everyone.  (even me... haha - there's that arrogance again)  You still kickin' Merrill?  On holidays?  Havn't heard from you in a while.  More specifically, havn't heard what you think of the pictures.  And my "techniques" 

I'm a young guy, and most everyone thinks I'm nuts for starting this and even crazier because I plan to actually go somewhere with the boat.  Best advice I can give is just go for it.  The people that call me crazy for this - most do it because my "quarter life crisis" (and I'm not even 25!) is way bigger than anything they've ever done.

293

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Yeah it's an Origo 4000.  I wasnt the one that had the fire.  The previous owner had the fire off the west coast on her way to vancouver.  I don't know the particulars.  From what I've read, if you run those non press alcohol stoves for a long time (1.5+ hrs) at mid/high heat, then the fuel will spill over the cannister and catch on fire.  Seems to be what happened here.  I don't really know, nor can I explain this happenining, but I guess it's happened to some people.  I dont think I'll ever run that stove that hard or that long to find out.

294

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

It's now an "open concept" Contessa 26.  But I have arranged for a sheet of 1/2 teak ply that will become some new bulkheads eventually.

The damage at the mast beam is just the liner cracking.  On the earlier boats, the two posts in the cabin are not attached to the floor or the mast support crossmember, so the deck will oilcan a bit.  I'm going to glass in some blocks (to the hull, thru the floor) and thru bolt the 2X2's to the crossmember.  This will take care of any compressive loads.

There sure was a galley fire, and the method for repairing came from many winter nights thinking, drinking, and bouncing lot of ideas, some stupid, off someone smarter than me:  my Dad. 

As far as the deck goes, I replaced with 3/8 marine ply.  Had to, because the liner has to go back in, and anything thicker or thinner would frig up the radius at the side deck and cabin sides.  Getting the old deck out was an exercise in patience - slowly going at it with some chisels, small prybar, long drill bits, and an air chisel (gently).   I glassed over one side of the new deck with polyester and chopped strand mat, and this is the "down" side.  I bonded the sections back up with West System, and high density filler (thanks Merrill, that really is good stuff!) with colloidal silica too.  Setting up all those sticks was really an excercise in patience and fighting gravity.  Next time, I think I'll drill out the rivets and lift the deck right off...........

There's a picture of the aft deck, up thru the hole in the transom, looking up and you can see blobs.  These are resin blobs, where the plywood was attached to the fiberglass - it's mostly a void.  That's what the forward decks pretty much looked like.  The techniques of the era....

The shelter is the catsass.  Keeps the snow out now, and none of the neighbors have complained yet...  Dad doesn't even charge me extra rent for taking up half his driveway.......

If you had a 4 cyliner honking away, you might move some water.  But the engines typically found in the cramped "engine room" on these Contessa's don't move all that much water.  Realistically, my Wilcox Crittendon Imperial 51 head will move more water.  A 5 gallon bucket will run the engine for a few minutes (testing in the driveway....)  Better to set yourself up with a double redundant electric setup (no I'm not crazy, what else are you going to put in the bilge, besides the rum tank) and a big manual sucker.

296

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Doubtful that the coachroof is indeed solid laminate - if you look real close it looks like about .040 or so (1 mm for you metric folk) of laminate in the form of pressboard or doorskin.  I hear that in early english boats (not just Co's) they used something similar, and it would be reasonable to infer that early Canadian boats were similarly built.

As far as the cabintop goes, I'm just working on injecting the voids from the top.  It doesn't seem that the bottom layer on my boat has come downwards, but there are lots of voids on top.  I'm going to re gelcoat the works, so I'm drilling a few more holes than average.

The side decks, in the earlier boats, are all plywood and are prone to wetness.  Not fun to fix.  That's all I say.  If they're wet, which the probably are, then the only solution is replacement.  I'll get some pictures up as soon as I can...

Cheers

Stefan

If you remove the headliner, you'll see the bottom of the plywood decks.  I've got lots of pictures if my boat all apart, I'll try to send them sometime in the next week.  The cracks in the headliner at the mast beam are from the fact that the posts are not actually attached to the beam, and just push up on the liner and deck.  Solution will be to fix (thru bolt maybe) the posts to the beam.  If the headliner is all blistered, then there is no doubt that the plywood deck is all wet and rotten.  I'll send you some pictures of my 74. Cheers

Stefan

Ideally, in a "static" (ie not sailing) state, you'd like to get the most water off the decks as you possibly can.  Water moves around a pile when you're sailing, and if you're beating you're tacking and no one spot stays wet for very long (save for where the hole is in your foulies).  Real damage occurs all week when you should be out sailing but have to go to work.  Water sits.  And sits.  And gets into places it shouldn't.  Skip a few weekends for people who get married during sailing season (I'll never ruin a good sailing weekend for anyone...)   Throw in some previous owner's lackadaisical maintenance of any thru deck fittings or holes.  Add this up over the years and what do you get?  Rotten plywood decks.  Trust me - it's not the funnest nor the easiest job to replace them.  All I want to be thinking about all week that the majority of the water that wouldn't make it out the deck drains isn't standing and undoing all of the work I've done all summer - that is when I'm unfortunate enough to be at work instead of just tacking and drying the other side off.....

300

(47 replies, posted in Technical)

Half a day is still only 4 hours, thats pretty good if you don't run a machine everyday... But if you do this everyday...  Should go quicker.  Mitchell time manual pays on the range of 4 hours to do a timing belt in an average car, but most mechanics, and even I can do it quicker.  And I don't work on em everyday. 

The "marine" machine shops in this area aren't quite as caught up technologically I suppose.  Not that you'd really want to set up an nc lathe just to run one shaft.  Conversational programming these days make one offs on the NC's pretty easy though....  Might as well do it the old fashioned way and keep the skills sharp.  Maybe I should make prop shafts all summer, and head off on the boat for winters...

All I really mean by all of this is that a prop shaft is a pretty simplitic part - requiring minimal machining compared to most of the parts, which are not worth anything near 300 clams each, that I make everyday.