Congrats, and you absolutely made the right choice. Firstly, the 1972 was clearly a labor of love for the owner, which is one of two things that can negate the age factor, (the other is lots of money).

Perhaps more importantly, the boat being advertised as a 1985 most certainly is not. While it looks like it's had reasonably good care, it's clearly pre-1983, and most likely mid 1970's.

2

(13 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

He had waaayy too much sail up for the wind strength and the sea state. He went abeam to breaking seas, and that will pretty much roll any boat. That being said, to be fair to the fellow sailing the boat, you can't always see breaking seas that are breaking away from you. It's incredibly odd that he wind beam to breaking seas, and I tend to suspect that he didn't see them and the reason he went beam to is that he suddenly realized the situation, (too late), and tried to get out of there, unsuccessfully.

No, no, no? Bit rude hey?

Interestingly, I buy filters for my Bukh at Napa.

Perhaps you should talk to Bob Porter about his Bukh that he just replaced with a Yanmar. I know he felt it was too exotic, but mine has run fine, and I've had no problem getting parts. A fellow named Davis Craven in Maryland is licensed dealer, and was very pleasant to work with. Could be a cost-effective interim solution. BTW - I'm no expert on engines, but I believe that Kubota engine is primarily used to run gensets, and wouldn't be the best choice as auxiliary power. All things being equal, I'd choose the Yanmar - not because they're necessarily better, but their worldwide distributorship is second to none. You can get parts just about anywhere in the world.

Hi Bob,

Boothbay. Not far from where you had your boat overhauled in Whitefield. I watched that refit with interest, our two boats are nearly identical.

Cheers -Steve

Hi Mike - I run hot and cold on whether I want to sell the boat. It was seriously for sale when I posted that as I was in the midst of a move to Maine. I completed the move, and had the Contessa trucked up here last fall, so she's no longer in Annapolis. I would certainly discuss selling her, but she is very well suited to sailing these waters, so it's a bit less tempting now.

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(3 replies, posted in Wanted)

8

(3 replies, posted in Wanted)

9

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

This is an odd question?! The hull is clearly strong enough to deal with any sailing conditions it may encounter. The strength of any boat's hull is fairly immaterial without considering it's shape. For instance, the Nor'Sea's hull HAS to be stronger because it's a broader, more blunt boat, so head seas have more surface area to present force upon. The contessa is a good sea-going boat not because of how it's built, but because of its design - it's narrow and deep relative to its length. It also has low freeboard, so this coupled with its narrow beam present less surface area to stress and less structure to support. I'd suggest not worrying about hull strength and focusing on the type of boat you want, and the condition any specific boat you find is in.

10

(19 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I'm still trying to figure out why you're repowering when you have an engine that you note is low hour - is it now functioning properly? If so, why would you go to the trouble and considerable expense of repowering the boat??

11

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

12

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I have a 140 that I've used like 3 times - it overpowers the boat in anything over 7 or 8 knots. The 110 is good up until about 16 or 17, and then it starts to overpower, too. As John says, you can reef the main and certainly use a full 110 up to over 20 knots, but I feel the boat's balance just disappears with a full 110 and a single reef in the main.
You can't restitch a 180 and make a 120 or smaller, they're made from lighter cloth than smaller sails and would self destruct. I'd suggest getting a 120 for your roller furler, and if you actually ever had light enough winds for a 180, use a cruising spinnaker or gennaker - or motor!

I've had my Contessa up for sale for some time, but not terribly actively as I wasn't entirely sure I wanted to sell her! I've now had a job change, which required I move, so she's now seriously for sale. It's #332 listed in the 'marketplace' section, now priced at $17,000 or best offer. New address is steve (at) ed-hamilton (dot) com.

I've had my Contessa up for sale for some time, but not terribly actively as I wasn't entirely sure I wanted to sell her! I've now had a job change, which required I move, so she's now seriously for sale. It's #332 listed in the 'marketplace' section, now priced at $17,000 or best offer. New address is steve (at) ed-hamilton (dot) com.

15

(2 replies, posted in For Sale)

It depends - if the boat is built in US/Canada, and I believe Mexico, (NAFTA), then no duty applies. If the boat was built anywhere else, last I knew import duty into the US was 1.5%, no idea what the Canadian tariff is.

16

(17 replies, posted in Boat handling / Performance)

Windspeed to knock down the boat = quite a lot, most likely combined with a large swell coming from the windward side. Unless you're doing a long passage, you shouldn't be out sailing in anywhere near the conditions that would knock down the boat.

The Contessa is quite narrow, so initial stability is relatively low; however, there's a lot of ballast below, and the further you heel, the harder it is to heel her further - as the ballast is lifted higher and more wind spills off the also heeled rig.

17

(29 replies, posted in Boat handling / Performance)

I don't think that's an accurate assessment or statement in any way, shape, or form. Consider for a moment the term "wimp", generally associated with the male gender - is it not? If you think not, then consider the term "gaybashing" - is that generally associated more closely with the male gender or the female? The statistics provide a clear, sad and stark answer:

"In the United States, the FBI reported that 15.6% of hate crimes reported to police in 2004 were based on perceived sexual orientation. 61% of these attacks were against gay men, 14% against lesbians, 2% against heterosexuals and 1% against bisexuals, while attacks against GLB people at large made up 20%."

Certainly I'm an advocate of the wrongly disenfranchised and will leap to their moral, financial, or physical assistance whenever the call comes, (like now), but equally so will also point out when the disenfranchised are falsely claiming the status. By the way, what's that got to do with sailing anyway? Which, after all, is the wonderful thread that all posters here should recognize as the tie that binds us all in equality. This is sailing, everyone's welcome and everyone belongs, none more or less than the other - that's the beauty of life under sail.

Best to clarify your question. What do you mean by bow light? Do you mean running lights, with which to be seen, or do you mean a light with which to see? If the latter, really, really not recommended. If the former:

Depends on the holes you mean  - some are attached to the hull, some are attached to the pulpit. Size of the fixture doesn't really matter provided it's covers the area taken up by the holes you mention.

How to install - again, depends on where you're installing. On the pulpit, on the stemhead fitting or deck, on the hull sides?

Wire along the run - not sure of the year of your contessa, but you should be able to tuck it up under the headliner, using cable ties to keep the wires together and affixing those with strategically placed screws.

Obscenely expensive marine wire - yes, definitely. Marine wire is tinned to prevent corrosion in the marine environment. really, what's obscene? You need $20 worth of wire tops for running lights on a 26, saving the $10 for "regular" wire means you will need to do it again.

Richard - first thing to do before modifying the boat's design is to sail it! I would not do major surgey until you understand how it all works under sail. The cockpit drains on my contessa are 1.5" ID,(I think!), sounds like maybe yours are smaller? Inadequate or adequate is really decided by where and what conditions you sail in. For any coastal cruising, the cockpit drains are absolutely fine. For offshore cruising, the bigger the better.

The reason you'll never see cockpit drains out the transom smaller cruising yachts is because they will put more water into your cockpit then they'll remove - by a LOT. Think it through - you're talking getting 3 inches of drop. The only time you're going to get a cockpit full of water is in breaking seas, likely over 12 feet, and likely following seas. Picture your boat going down a 15 foot cresting wave. Where are those transom cockpit drains in relation to the cockpit now? They are a foot or more above your cockpit sole and under the pressure of many tons of seawater, and are flooding your cockpit rather than draining it. That would be a very big problem because while they would drain a bit after you crested the wave and the trim of the boat went the other way, (bow up), they would drain slower than they flooded as the outside pressure of the ocean would be greater than the pressure of the amount of water in the cockpit.

So assuming your concerned about the drains because you're going to be sailing offshore, I would suggest 1 of 2 things, or both:

1. Get an SSB and a subscription to a routing or weather service for sailors. The best way to avoid a swamped cockpit is to never put yourself in the conditions that would cause it.
2. If you really want more efficient drains, leave the existing routing right where it is, (crossing over is very important again not to flood your cockpit); get out some power tools and make the existing ones bigger! It should not be a big job and would probably make them quite adequate.

Ball valves or no - I think Merrill was right and wrong. He's right in that they would likely get frozen and are hard to reach so might be no help; on the other hand if you have them on the cockpit drains, they definitely won't hurt. My 26 does have ball valves, and one was frozen when I bought her. I've since freed it and if you grease them once a season, and just operate the levers a couple of times every time you have the engine hatch off they won't freeze again.

Another note on transom openings in following seas - you generally DO find the wet exhaust outlet there, but often find no way of closing it. Just as large following seas could flood your cockpit if you installed drains there, they could, (and have on many boats), also flood your cylinder head with seawater, so would definitely recommend installing a way to close the wet exhaust outlet to the sea if going offshore.

20

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Jeff - I have a 1985 Contessa 26 in Annapolis. It's for sale, but I'm not a super motivated seller, so if I still have her this spring/summer I'd be happy to take you for a sail. you can contact me at stevem AT sunsail DOT com.

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(29 replies, posted in Boat handling / Performance)

The Contessa doesn't have a problem with weather helm, UNLESS you're trying to pinch, or the rig isn't tuned properly. If the rig is tuned and sails trimmed properly, falling off a few degrees from maximum sheeting you can just about let go of the tiller.

Not reefing is not wise - (it can be fun of course!), but it not only overstresses the rig, but it is also a much slower way to sail than reefing. If your combing is consistently in the drink, you'll go much faster by tucking in a reef.

22

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Bill's got it spot on, you can motor all over the place with your main up and no issues. 2 methods for the jib, (as it appears from your website you don't have roller furling), both methods assuming your jib halyard is led to the cockpit -
1. If it's not too sloppy, hank on the jib, attach sheets and leave it flaked on deck before leaving the slip, or mooring. Then just hoist the jib when ready. This should work in pretty much all but the sloppiest conditions you would go leisurely sailing in.
2. If it's REALLY sloppy, you can hank on the jib, tie the sheets on, flake the jib on the deck, do a couple loose folds and put the sailbag over it, leading the halyard and sheets out of the mouth of the sailbag - kinda like you would prep a spinnaker. Cinch the sailbag somewhat loosely and clove hitch the sailbag cinch ties to a stanchion, the pulpit, or the lifelines. The sailbag will keep the sail from unflaking itself and going all over the place, and provided you've cinched the bag loosely enough, when you hoist the jib it should come out of the bag with relatively little resistance. This of course leaves the sailbag fluttering in the breeze, so best if you also attach a small line to the bottom of the bag to tie that end of to the lifelines to keep things as neat as possible while sailing. As my JJT 26 doesn't have roller furling, when I'm cruising, I just flake the sail and put it in the sailbag still hanked on, so it's at the ready but still protected from the saltwater and UV.

23

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Methinks my point still slightly misunderstood. Not taking a shot at anyone, at least no more than I was myself - meaning my admonition was meant for myself as much as anyone else. The caution I meant to make was that we all love our boats for OUR reasons, and this, in my observation, often leads one to look down our noses at "other" boats. While I generally try to keep my mouth shut, I am JUST as guilty of this as anyone. e.g. - I have been quoted as saying Hunters are crap. And I think they are, for the use that I use a boat. However, if one wants to spend most of their time in calm waters and with short hops from marina to marina, they are in fact the perfect boat providing much space in a relatively inexpensive platform that sails quite well in certain conditions. Would I sail one offshore? No, I'd rather eat my own head. I saw a Hunter that was delivered from A to B some 850 miles offshore in the Atlantic, a 45-ish if memory serves, and at the end of that delivery, one could wiggle the main bulkhead with their hand. Yikes! But that person was using a boat for a purpose that the boat was not intended from a build and design perspective, (let's leave the marketers out of this for the sake of the point for a moment, that's a different story altogether!). Just trying to point out that everything moves on. Don't forget in the 1970s, even our beloved Contessa 26s were not infrequently referred to as "tupperware" by just as discerning folk as we are. Were they right to look down their nose then at our lovely mini-yachts? No more than we are now to turn up our nose at any boat of "our time", but at that time, many boat aficionados were that much closer to wood. And were $$$$, time, and maintenance no object, I would wholeheartedly agree with them and would be unquestionably sailing a wood boat - pragmatics aside, to me, there is nothing so warm, beautiful and beckoning as a planked wooden hull. However, pragmatics are a reality, so I've compromised with a plastic boat - albeit one with traditional lines. $118K for a new Dana 24? Not so bad really, considering the last of the "new" JJT 26s rolled off the line at about $50K, which is in fact $80K in today's dollars, then $118K isn't so far above.  And certainly the Dana 24 is built to a notably higher standard than the JJT 26, not to mention as this discussion underscores, there isn't as much competition for a offshore worthy built pocketcruiser now - so that price is actually in line.

24

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I live in Maryland now, but spent most of my years thus far in Maine. I think the answer is what people who would buy a Contessa 26 are partial to, as well as a function of economics. It strikes me that the Great Lakes market is actually more of a racer/cruiser market, if one takes a stroll through Sailing's classifieds.

The 26 is a traditional boat. My real point is to avoid that sense of sailors looking down their nose at another boat type and thinking "less" of it because it does not meet their aesthetic requirements. "Fat Ass" is actually an evolution in design that has yielded not only more room, but better off the wind sailing characteristics. Let's bear in mind that the C26 is a canoe, even by traditional standards. There are many wide and heavy traditional boats. Ever seen a coastal shipping schooner, (coaster), from the 19th century? Crocker designed cutters?

Boats are all compromises of one thing or another. Sailing is sailing, I applaud anyone out there doing, regardless of whether or not I would choose their boat as my own.

One of the reasons costs have gone up is because less people sail now than 10 years ago, so welcome the brethren, rather than judge them. (speaking generally here, not specifically to anyone.)

Stefan is partially right though. The cost to build a 27 foot boat commercially isn't that far from the cost to build a 31, so why build the 27? This has generally led to a gap between the sub-28 sport sailer and the 30+ cruiser.

The Dana 24 from Pacific Seacraft is still in production and probably meets the traditionalist appeal as closely as possible. I would also put the quality of construction miles above the JJT 26s.

25

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Quite right, technology has transformed sailing. But it's not just technology in equipment, it's technology in materials and especially design. Does anyone think evolution stops where they are now? In the 60s, did anyone think monohull sloops would be capable of 20+ knots and still be seaworthy enough to cross oceans? No, but technological advancements in design and build has made this a reality. Check out the minitransat. 24 foot monohulls that cross oceans and hit double-digit speeds doing it. I'm a sucker for a nice sheer line, a pretty bow, and a solid feel underfoot too; but, the sport of sailing needs the folks who live on the cutting edge too, we'll all ultimately benefit from what they learn and develop.