Search options (Page 5 of 15)

interested as well in a 110-120 genny

i had nylon home hardware elbows on my boat as well - replaced all with bronze elbows and bronze ball valves.  took a little bit of fussing, but everything fits and is operable. 

canadian small vessel construction standards, and im sure abyc standards as well, require that any thru hull penetration have a positive shut off.  ie a ball valve.  there are 2 arguments here - the important thing is to use wire reinforced hose (exhaust hose or hydraulic), double clamp everything, and replace the hose every 5 years no matter what.

the small garboard drain is what saved my boat from a certain death after being on the hard semi uncovered for 8 years.  i glassed it over for last season, and once i was hauled for winter had to redrill after the boat was sitting a bit forward on the cradle and got half filled up.  pump it out or drill a hole, I drilled the hole.  the garboard drain is being reinstalled before launch this year.....

see post in site support/comments!!!

<<
I am working on some more solutions. Unfortunately just keeping the spam off the site is taking a considerable amount of time. Also, I have to admit that daily life is currently impinging on the time I spend maintaining this site.

But rest assured I am working on it. If its any consolation, only about 8% of the spam is actually getting through. I've managed to automatically blog the other 92%. That gives you some idea of how much spam there is.

The best thing to do right now for you guys is to not click on spam. Just leave it be and I'll keep working on the filtering.

Thanks guys!
>>

The reality is that, unfortunately, life gets in the way of our hobbies.  I (and many others) would much rather have the bankroll to just work on my boat (websites, camaros, casino, house, show dog, horses, farm, snowmobiles, motorcycles, whatever one does for fun...) all day, or pay someone to.  Instead, I have a job, house, cars to maintain, commitments, etc.  Some of us have more demanding commitments than others. 

The forum/site precessing co26.com is no longer in existence (pocketcruisers.com) and the archived information that you can find here - relating specifically to the Contessa 26 - was only preserved by the efforts of Adrian who volunteered to recreate a North American Contessa 26 home on the internet.  He has done an excellent job and continues to do so even though he no longer is even a Contessa owner.  This is a hobby that sort of carried on past the fun part...

It is winter is most of Contessa sailing territory.  Many people and their boats are sleeping.  There have not been many Contessas changing hands (yachtworld, boatforsale, boattrader, local knowledge) in the last little while.  The Contessa was a limited run boat.  There are not 500 owners posting to this site.

Things will pick up in the spring, slide off in the summer, peak in the fall, and die off again next winter. 

If you've got a better solution to the spam, go for it.  Adrian was a great person to take over this site. 

To be completely honest I'd be less worried about this site.  I'd be more worried about why that brand new Beta  twin is going to shake almost as bad as my 1gm10.

5500 lbs is not out of the question for regular trailering - as long as you have a decent trailer (elec brakes) and a decent tow vehicle.

hauling and launching is another issue, as you will need some specialized gear/setup to launch off a trailer on a ramp...  as long as wherever you intend to sail has slinging capabilites, you're pretty much laughing.  it wouldn't be a weekend affair to haul her somewhere, sail, re load, and head home but for 3-4 week stints the contessa would be a pretty good gunkholer for some serious cruising grounds (lake superior....?)

work around the aperature, the glasswork required will not be worth it.  thats a pretty solid area of boat, and i wouldn;t go hacking at it.

recess the panel is a pan/box on a vertical surface (cockpit well,) and fashion a plexi cover on a hinge.  i was considering even mounting the panel inside a cockpit locker, but the hole was already there in the cockpit and i was tired of doing glasswork.

primary fuel filter is always a good idea, the racor replaceeable element filters are pretty reasonable.  with such a small tank it is much easier to ensure a reliable source of fuel on the boat.

if youre replacing the tank you might want to even think of something smaller (5 gal or so) (I put only a 3 gal tank in) and just carry extra fuel on boat for when you go on a long long trip.

John - I've been there too!  when i bought my boat I was around 15 pounds lighter, and spent about as many hours in the cockpit lockers replacing deck coring above.  As fun and snug as it was in that little space, I could have done without the fiberglass dust.

4 years, some very good eating, and a few very tasty beers later I still manage to get  in and out of the lockers on each side to hold the nutz and washerz  on the backside of each backstay tang....

she is looking great!

i have to say that i am pretty partial to your choice of colour... (see gallery...)

there is absolutely nothing practical about painting a boat dark blue (or boats in general, but thats another discussion for another day) - but they sure look good!

the 10 is just a derated version of the 13.5.  it makes 10hp at 3000 RPM, and likely just has a rack stop to prevent advancing past 3000 revs.  if you go for the 13.5, you have "access" to these extra rpms, all the way to 3600.  kind of like a merc 6 and 8 hp outboard - the two share every single part, the 6 is rated at 4500 revs and the 8 is rated at 5000.  same engine, one is detuned.

if you get the 13.5, and cruise it at 3000, there is no difference between the 13.5 at 3000 and the 10 at 3000.  far as i can tell the reduction gear options are the same for both.  so in theory a 10 running at 2400 will actually move you slower than a 13.5 running at 2880, because they are the exact same engine with the same reduction gearbox.

being identical engines, the 10 is actually running at only 66% full power at 2400 rpm, because it really was designed to be run at 3600 revs and make 13.5 hp.

go for the 13.5, and a full gage cluster from the start. 

dont do any work to the aperature, swing an 11" 3 blade on there, 13 or more pitch and you should be alright.

what is the reduction ratio that youre looking at?

just looking at beta - is there much of a price difference for the 10 vs 13? 

i'd go with the 13, run it as a 10 at max 3000 revs cruise, and then you;ve got some extra punch in case you really really need it

while i'm at it, you might want to start with an fresh installation of an auxiliary oil pressure gauge and temp gauge if your panel only has murphy lights.  temp gage is a little harder, but i'd at least tap off for an oil press gage.