1

(3 replies, posted in Wanted)

I happen to have a trailer!  It needs some work, but willing to discuss a trade.

Adrian, you have done an outstanding job of keeping the Contessa Corner Forum up and running all of these years!  It remains a great repository of information.

How are you holding up?

3

(2 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

I am so incredibly grateful for The Contessa Corner site -- and appreciate all of the work put in over the years.  It remains a good repository of information for all things "Contessa 26", and I like to point this out to new owners who join up on the Facebook page!!

4

(8 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

I'd be willing to take this on... email me.

Hi Alexandra,

My Contessa 26 is hull 230, built in '79.  We are likely powered by the same Farymann K34.

Best,
Paul

You should have a send and return for each circuit up the mast.  I have spreader lights, a steaming light, an anchor light, and a windex light (very low amps).   Only the anchor and windex lamp share a common ground.  Assuming you will have the minimum added to this mix of a TRI light.

12 gauge is about right for the job, due to the lengths back to the panel.  14 can do in a pinch -- but remember that the inefficiency of the smaller gauge will cost amps. 

Plan your circuits ahead, and map it out.  Runs are always longer than you think!

Excellent suggestion John!

Laughing here Ian!  Yes -- I was still losing bits down into the bilge on occasion. this past Fall.  And yes, much lost under the muffler, probably never to be seen again (or until the water-lock is replaced)!

~Paul

Seems like an easy thing to find... but this eludes me!  Am searching for a knob-end for a stop cable on my Farymann K34.  Any ideas?  Not sure of the diameter.

Thanks!

10

(2 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Interesting... Based upon your rate Stefan, I think I am being soaked by my insurer.  Paid nearly double that for less coverage -- PLUS required a survey. 

Bill already paid for this year -- will definitely shop around at the end of this season. 

Damned rogues and scallywags!

I've rigged a flag halyard that runs up to the top of my mast, adjacent to the back stay. I tie this off on a stainless cleat installed just below the back stay split.  I rather like being able to hoist "the colours" up nice and high on a breezy day!

12

(8 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Nice!

Copied this to the Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1522972 … rk_t=group

13

(8 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Copied this to the Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1522972 … rk_t=group

Anyone know where I can find one of these?   

This is off my Farymann K34 -- just changed up the fuel lines, and cracked the head off this bolt in the process!

Thanks.

So, let's admit it -- we've all dropped something in the bilge, never to be seen again. 

Last weekend, I set about replacing the fuel lines on my Contessa's Farymann.  Lost one of the copper crush washers for a banjo bolt (and subsequently not as easy to source as one might imagine!!).  Bink, bink, bloop.

Last year I did a really good clean out of the bilge, and managed to recover the remnants of screwdrivers (plastic handles had long since dissolved), nut drivers, stainless hardware, and an antique caliper -- I suspect much of this had been down there for decades.

What's your best "dropped it in the bilge" story?

Cast aluminum?  Mine are bronze (1979, sail# 230).

17

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

Bonjour Philippe,

There should be a notch approx 1" above the end of the "tube" below the filler.  I'd be surprised if it is not there!

Paul

18

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

Apologies .. I used 30 weight for the gear oil.  On my engine there is a threaded filler cap with a cylindrical tube attached for level.  This is right on top of the transmission.


HD SAE 20 for the crankcase
HD SAE 30 for the gearbox

19

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

I posted about this a few years ago.  20 weight oil is fine (no detergents!)

20

(2 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Hi Jordan,

I rigged 2 blocks.  First is on a shackle attached to my stem (behind my furler, which is out on hole most forward of stem).  2nd is at the end of a braided rope I have going out about 1.5' ahead of my forward pulpit support (yes -- I have a 3-leg pulpit). The idea is to keep any undue stress of my pulpit.
I attach a 20ft rope with a snap shackle to the foot of my Gennaker, running this back through the 2 blocks, and tie off on my foredeck cleat.  It's a small effort to fly the sail by pulling in or releasing the foot, and a challenge to tack or gibe the rig as currently configured. 

Best regards,

21

(2 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Has anyone rigged one of these previously?  I'm looking for a recipe to make one up for my boat.  Will make flying my Asymmetrical much easier.

Need the following:

- Length of wire
- wire ends?
- size of parrel beads
- how many do I need on the strop?

Thanks!

22

(7 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

JordanH wrote:

How do others find the asymmetric on the Contessa?

I fly a Gennaker -- and love it.

Interesting thread... I hope the Association takes off.  We'll wait with interest here in Montreal!

A few of us have a Facebook page, but it's underused. 
www.facebook.com/groups/152297218185060


Cheers!

Interesting thread... I hope the Association takes off.  We'll wait with interest here in Montreal!

A few of us have a Facebook page, but it's underused. 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1522972 … rk_t=group

Cheers!

Thanks Jordon,

I'll probably be giving them a call at some point.

Meanwhile, I have ordered the 3/16" fuel hose from a UK supplier.

Paul