151

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I do not know if this info is available or not, but if it is it, may be of no value. The blue you have now is not the blue you had when the boat was new. Fading, oxidizing, etc.  Best to try to find something that happens to match your blue in its current stage of life.

152

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

My main is loose footed. (only attached to the boom at the corners) It works well. As you adjust the draft, the shape is maintained all the way to the bottom. Another advantage is that you can get around the boom. I have a gybe preventor strap that loops around the boom. I like open footed, but it is not a revolution that will increase speed by 3 knots and change your life. If you have a strong aesthetic feel for the traditional foot, then go with that.

156

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have a 76. I install a line guard between the keel and the rudder. When I drilled a hole up from the bottom of the keel about 3 inches forward of the aft end, the glass was only about 1/4 inch thick. I was very surprised. The glass on the starboard galley counter top and front face was almost twice as thick.

157

(5 replies, posted in Wanted)

If the boat is registered, you need a bill of sale with signatures on the special government form so that you can transfer it to you. Cost is $200 or 250. But the boat is probably licienced which is easier and cost is not much. With both of these transfers a problem can be that the current owner did not bother to transfer the paper work to his name and how do you transfer it from some unreachable/uninterested previous owner. You can check current registration online. I do not know about liciencing. My boat had a Petter in it that had been recently overhauled. With pictures to prove it. I quickly knew I had to change it once in the water. His definition of good working and mine were different.

Welcome back. You must tell us how the train move goes. I am interested in trans-Canada transport in the future and did not know that rail was an option.

159

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

I have the same Para-tech for my boat and had the opportunity (forced) to use it in a NE gale in the Gulfstream. It worked perfectly and saved my ass in 30 ft breaking waves of 36 hours. I would not go to sea without one. I highly recommend it to anyone going offshore.

160

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

You could have the bimini supports inboard and yet still have the top extend further outboard like the overhang of a house roof or the way supports for the roof over gas pumps are not at the roof edge but nearer the center.

Thanks for all your work.

162

(11 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

163

(11 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

You may also just need to change the pitch of the prop. When I bought my boat, it was underpowered. The pitch of the prop was too small for the engine/transmission/hull/prop diameter combination. But since the engine was also not worth saving, I installed a Yanmar 1GM10. Depending on the existing prop and the amount of change needed, a prop company may be able to change the pitch. (bend the blades)

I am not sure if I will make it to the show, but if I do it will be the 13th. Mid afternoon anytime sounds good.

165

(6 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

"Awl gripped alloy mast" is a big aluminum stick painted with a paint made by the Awl-Grip company. My mast does not have any bolts holding it to the deck, just a tenon in the bottom of the mast and a mortise in the deck. Does anything other than the bolt hold the bottom of your mast from moving side to side or front to back? Friends have Tanzers that only use one bolt at the back of the mast.

166

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The differences between the Contessa's traditional "designed for sea shape" and a modern "designed for the marina" hull shape  are winning the sales battle. A friend has an Aloha 27. It is only one foot longer, but the differences are night and day. Full head room. The galley is across the beam. The cabin berths are like a large boat with a bench on one side and a C shaped settee and table on the other. The cockpit lockers are so large that two adults can climb into one side locker to work on the side of the engine. I had to squeeze my sister's 5 year old into my aft locker with a wrench in order to tighten the aft chain plate bolts. Those features will always win with people who never plan on being out of sight of the marina entrance.

167

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The locking bolt is offset from the door more than 1/2" so when it goes up it does not go into the fibreglass cabin frame but completely behind it. (inboard)

168

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

169

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I do not have photos and the boat is already on the hard for the winter, but I will try to borrow a digitial camera when I go to put the tarps on during the week.

170

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I replaced mine using 1/2" mahogany marine ply. It is a fairly easy job. Make sure your current one does not have too sloppy of a fit before using it as a pattern. The upper half below the hinge has a vent grill and the upper half above the hinge has a small 3"x6" smoked lexan window. If you live aboard the full plexi hatchway does not offer much privacy at night when the cabin lights are on and the morning sun can shine on the bunks. The small window allows enough visibility to see out without opening the top section. Good in rain or cold. I have a key latch from the outside and a manual latch from the inside. Do not use the hardware store plated piano hinges, but get the expensive stainless hinge.

171

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

If the aluminum ones are strong enough then the only issue is galvanic corrosion. I just had the SS vang bracket rip off my aluminum boom. The aluminum rivets corroded. It took 30 years. So its not a big issue. The aluminum will corrode, not the SS. It is easier to replace corroded aluminum rivets than having to replace the SS rivets with larger ones because the holes in the mast have corroded out to a larger diameter.

172

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My prop is a 11x12 3 blade

173

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Mine has a 2.62:1 ratio and works great on a 3 blade prop

One of those white plastic turnbuckle boot tubes would also work and look a little more finished. But the quickest would be a glob of rigging tape with the best intentions to replace it soon or next season or someday.

175

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I have 1/4" reefing lines. They have never broken, but I have ripped out some of the boom fittings. Quarter inch line is a bit hard on the hands.