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The tot is a sweet little stove,very nice addition.Mine is Starboard with drawers beside it,where the ice box used to be.

Thanks for the Info.Very interesting stuff.

I follow now why there are no exact lines,but you could add the skin thickness to the British offsets if they existed.I understand the British boats are I.F.s,so I take it to mean that they are sturdier but with the same lines as the nordic boat,or is it drawn differently.Was the cold molded hull lifted off the british boat,or built from molds as a British boat?I am really curious now,the difference between the half dozen or so derivatives of the Nordic boat.Some of the boats And the Contessa is one might be called folkboat styles as oppossed to types?

Thats a lovely boat GWW,but I misunderstood,and thoughta model of the old Contessa was wanted,and it had crossed my mind to do a half model.The lines could work fine (old Contessa)if I could print them off at a usable scale  to make a table of offsets.

Just had a quicklook for some lines or offsets for the Contessa.If I could find these ,I could make a half model in red cedar and send it on.

I have a roller .I lose ten degrees going to weather reefed.I had my staysail altered to fit the furler as this sail is useful thru a wide wind range,and surprisingly close to the genoa in windard performance.Because it is such a chore to change I decide at anchor what sail to bend on.Reaching and running I fly my single luff spinaker all the time now,much better than the genoa,so there is afairly small range of conditions where I actually lose much performance.A storm jib is next ,as the rolled jib still sucks.

To state the obvicous,an engine is a great convience.Not much help in a blow,but being becalmed for three days really does blow,even when you have ample time on your hands.Making tidal passes at the right time is very challenging,at leat here with the traffic and speeds up to about 15 knots in places.Thus far I have found the objective hazards to be calms in bad places ,and being carried down on to a reef in light or no wind conditions.In places the bottom can come up very fast.I also try to stay the hell out of the way of tugs and barges,though these are likely the most professional sailors on the coast;they are not manuverable.I listen to the traffic channel 24 hours aday on the coast,so I know who to look out for in advance.That said,try it out.You will never be more engaged with sailing than when you are without a motor.My vote for basic propulsion is a two horse Honda hung on the rudder,or wherever,it will certainlly encorage one to sail.

The bad news.No anchoring in Victoria,incredible but true.Esquimalt,not convient.The best is Tseum Harbour(Sidney),Oak Bay,but you need real good ground tackle or a mooring and near the yacht club in Cadboro bay,a little out of the way.I only know one person right now that stays on the hook year round,but maybe you will be the second.You probably already know ,the tides can be pretty swift around here,so if you are engineless your always postioning your self not to get carried down on reefs and such.Stay out of Active Pass,without an engine,around the bottom of Saurna or through Porlier pass much much better.Bill

Engineless bro,maybe you will stop in Victoria.Cheers Bill

I just glanced at yhe oar site.Very interesting.I think it is dreaming to think that one could row or scoll a contessa into 15 knots of wind,hard work in a pulling boat.About five knots has been the practial limit for me and it is slow.Due to pitching and rolling it is some time after a blow before the boat can be moved by oar.600 ft of anchor line and some sea room will probably keep you off the beach.A big radar reflector is also good cause you sure want to be seen if you have no steerage way,which happens in the course of a daySome further thoughts on oars:Seeing forward is a problem sitting,and a fairly high angle of entry standing,meaning they are shorter but must be lifted higher to clear the water.....It is very satisfing sailing the boat sans motor but calls on many more skills that are not always honed when we can just bail with the motor,i.e.,you just have to take it onthe chin if you can not motor in ahead of a storm,and this happens........In short manually moving the boat is fun and impresses the hell out dockside longers(or they think you are a loon)but I would not have really high expectations.Oh yeah and the tide can sweep you miles past where you want to go when the wind falls as happened this week on the way back to Vancouver Is resulting in an up all night sailthru pea soup fog in the main traffic lane,no fun.That has happened three times this summer,as some places you just don't want to anchor.....And having used a youloh and sculling oar over the years I would give the nod to the youloh.......The speed limitation is that the oar starts to float up as you gain speed.I find at about two knots I can,t scull fast enough to keep the oar immersed,but maybe it needs some tuning....Last winter there was an article in the wooden boat about making a Japanese youloh.....Again my averave cruisin speed I estimate at 1.2 and 1.6 ktallowing for tide and such.

I am in the Charolottes now ,engineless.I have a twelve foot sculling oar(over the stern)that moves the boat at an easy 1.2 knots.Most places I can sail in and out.I took the genoa off weeks ago and put the jib on and left it.T he speed difference was;nt great and the boat is so much handier.The oarlock isjust a bit of teak noched and angled to suit the oar.I would forget about oar(s) on a boat this size;to much work.

I think it was actually about 135.00 plus tax ,pretty for a pin and post I thought,however they are well made in the U.K..We used the backing plate that came with the post and with the assistance of my limber !6 year old plus plus sweating ,swearing and the sacrifice of a smmall amount of skin ,the deed was done.The under hung mount will graze the cowl vents if you have them on the back deck.