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The Contessa Corner → Posts by stefan_d
For a summer slip at Gan Municipal it runs me 1300
Haul, Launch, Mast step in spring and unstep in fall, cradle storage in summer is just shy of 1000 at IMS
So 2300 for a full year. I'm glad it's only 26 feet long
At the same time, what other (fun) hobbies can you do for 2300 a year
will be there the 9th staying at the sheraton friday and sat nights - can't beat the deal!
might get up there this weekend to check on things, if im at the boat i'll measure it up!
I love my little Contessa. She's a well laid out 26 footer. Sails like a dream. Takes an hour to scrub from stem to stern. Gets compliments everywhere I go. Can handle any weather. Huge cockpit for when its sunny out. Snug down below for those October evenings. Doesn't cost a fortune to store for the winter or dockage for the summer. The food, drink, and view are as good as on any 40 footer. Doesn't have a flat panel TV thats bigger than the one in most (not mine) houses. Doesn't even have a TV. I could go on, - all I really want to do is spend even more time sailing....
I wouldn't bother with 3 reef points - experience so far for me this summer, in some pretty stiff breezes, proved that reef #1 was sufficient, reef #2 would be for a hurricane. The cost of a second reef wouldn't be worth it, especially seeing that if you have to reef you're definitely not in light airs.
Have no idea about Lee sails, I know that Andy Soper and JC do phenomenal work for the money.
KSL is where my main and #1 are spending some time this winter for a 'checkup'.
I still check in every other day or so - small number of Co26's changing hands = not many new questions....
Had a great summer on the Untold Want, she sails like a dream (in anything over 12 kts) and is a very well laid it little boat as long as you're not interested in standing up (who needs standing headroom on anything less than 30 feet anyways...)
i would surmise that things changed. there seems to be little consistency along the years almost as if the factory used what was available at the time, and as the years progressed the layup construction / techniques improved a bit
with 3/8" coring how thick are the glass layers? seems like the early boats were heavy on the glass and light on the coring. the foredecks on the untold want were and are recored with 3/8" marine plywood saturated with west system and the top layer of glass is almost as thick!
what year?
my 75 has 2 layers of around 3/16" glass and a layer ~.040 almost like doorskin between
approx 1/2" total thickness
only one thing to say
NICE!!
enjoy the rest of the season
just uploaded a few pictures to the gallery of progress and current projects
the bbq install was a neat way to get a full size bbq on such a small boat without making it sit 4' high
i might add that i used the 25mm shaft / 42mm stern tube. the stern tube was a bit bigger than 1-5/8" and incidentally, 42mm is 1.655
i would consider cutting ~12" and reinstalling or removing all together the teak toe cap aft of the rail so not to hack the genny tracks
way easier to refinish the caprail off the boat, no sharp edges left from the hacked genny track.
i have garhauer low load cars as well, love em! and the price is right at pridemarine.com
oh my god there's someone out there who thinks like I do
i reground the valves and seats, so my head likely wont be good for another rebuild.
ive got a stainless elbow in the works, ready for next season. i went so far as to take the stock elbow off the engine in the fall....... clean it, good to go for another year.
r&d small shear mounts were around 50 bucks each, a far better product than the yanmar mount. already had the old beds cut out, so new ones were already going to happen.......
an ounce of prevention eh....?
i wouldnt worry about the gearbox (common to 2 and 3gm series).
i'm looking for a used head to rebuild and keep as a spare.
i wouldnt let the fact that the 1gm10 is no longer in production influence the decision. if its the most economical, parts spares will be available for years to come.
they havnt made the sidewinders (sb8, etc) in probably 15 years but parts are still readily available. the yanmar is not entirely marine exlusive, shares some parts with other yanmar families.
I get filters for the yanmar either at napa, or wix filters from another jobber. napa filters are wix filters.
5 bucks for an oil filter vs 14. hmm.....
just for the sake of it, if anyone is interested
yanmar 119660-35150 is a wix 51334 filter
fuel filter is a wix 33262
youcan go to wixfilters.com and punch in the yanmar number for an interchange.
the engine beds are there, everything else is there...
i might even be convinced to take on some winter business
whats parts availability like? i seem to remember jcfoto having to do some work on a farymann
beta is a twin cylinder engine, with a kubota block. parts are more readily available, as youre not dealing with yanmar dealers and protected dealer territory.
the yanmar runs ok for a single, is compact, pretty simple and proven/bulletproof. i would say easier to work on in the confines of a contessa 26, international parts availability, etc.
i had no idea that the price tag on the single yanmar was that much.
dont think that oc95 is the right beast for the job...
i'll meet up with you this summer, and you can see the proper re-installation that i did for the yanmar 1gm10, and hear it run etc.
properly installed and mounted, the beta twin cylinder would be a much better choice. the only issue being that to mount the engine properly, it has to come pretty far forward and this usually involves relieving the boat a bit. the intention being that you really don't want to have (or should) to modify the engine's mount brackets, rather rebuild or modify the engine beds in the boat.
is eastern marine who quoted you on the engine? if youre looking for an installer they do beautiful work.
there is a guy on boatforsale.org who advertises yanmars avail in kingston. i might even considering buying a diesel in new york state and bringing it back if youre having a third party install the engine. or thinking of tackling it yourself.
is that an air cooled engine?
whichever is cheaper!
did yours break?
rather than go through the expense of making another teak tiller, i would consider laminating strips of ash, or alternating ash and jatoba for a strong and mighty interesting looking tiller
3/16 was stock, 7/32 for the forestay.
i rerigged all with 7/32. was the same price for the wire as 3/16.....
i had to make new chainplates - new pins were 3/8 for everything.
The Contessa Corner → Posts by stefan_d
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