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if you feel like coming further east down the lake, you could winter in iroquois. iroquois marine services. they're the best winter storage yard around - handle the boats well and have good equipment.  the yards a bit messy but you can work away, and even stay on your boat while its in the yard (unlike toronto.....)  rates are definately better than toronto.

sandy's beach was a resto job done by a lady here in ottawa - based out of nepean sailing club  a few years ago.  there used to be the story at sailquest.com but i see that it's gone now.......

For most boats this would be the way to go - seeing as you're going to paint the deck anyways.  The construction of the Contessa side and fore decks is a bit different - the top skin of glass is about 1/4" thick ++ in some places, then the plywood, then the liner on the inside.  The liner is only 2 layers of CSM and then gelcoat.  This isn't enough to support the works if you remove the top skin and decking.  Think of the entire cabintop like a 1/4" thick eggshell and not so much like a sandwich construction.  The plywood underneath is really just bonded up to the top layer of the sandwich, and the bottom layer is just the liner to cover everything up.

As far as delamination in the cabintop decks go - I've just finished squeezing in about a half-gallon of west system in a dozen or so voids that I tapped out.  She's rock solid now.

you'll have to mix it up yourself.  mix up the colour in small batches DON'T ADD THE HARDENER.  ie 10mL white, 2 toothpick dabs blue, 1 dab black/green/whatever.  record what you did, and put a little bit of UNHARDENED gelcoat resin somewhere thats the colour that you want to match.  you'll know right away whether or not you're close, and if you're way off then its no big cause all you need is a paper towel to wipe off the UNHARDENED resin. 

best thing i've found is starting with a bit of the main colour (ie blue) and then adding complementary colours to remove the colour you don't want - if it's too blue then add a teeny weeny bit of red instead of laying the white to it.

once you've got a colour match you're happy with, mix up a bigger batch of coloured resin, and then test again unhardened.  once you're happy, don't use all youre good colour at once, mix up small batches of coloured resin and hardener and away you go

on the earlier boats, the two 2x2 teak posts were cut off at 45deg on the bottom, and rested on the angled sections of the floor liner - leaving only the mast support beam to take up the compressive loads of the mast.  the bulkheads didnt really fit all that well either.  it would seem that in later boats the posts are cut off square and sit on blocks on the floor, or a similar setup that will not slide out when loaded.    the liner was craked at the top where the posts touched, so i cut the liner away, filled the holed up with glass.  layer after layer, until it was flush with the cabin ceiling, and then faired it all.  then i made blocks and glassed them to the floor, and then cut the teak posts until they fit snug, and will now act as compression posts.  sorry no pics on the website yet.

people seem so obsessed about beefing up the mast support beam, when all thats needed is some way to transfer compressive load from the mast step to the floor/hull.  the later boats apparently have better fitting bulkheads that are gooped in with some sort of rigid putty all around.  beefing up the mast support beam masks the problem, but doesn;t really solve it.

What you can do (what I ended up doing because I don't want to replace the deck again...) is:  cut the slots for the chainplates to pass thru the deck.  Open them up about 3/16 bigger than they need to be all around  Get some forming tape - any  thick plastic tape will work that's not too sticky and tape up the bottom side of the hole - from the inside of the boat.  Mix up some West or Epiglass or epoxy of you choice, mix up with some high density filler and silica to thicken it up, and fill the "hole" from the top.  Sand down any proud points after its all cured, and then re-cut the slots for the chainplates.   Now, if any water gets past where you've filled the gap with sealant, the water will just run into the boat, and not into your coring.

its possible that they're R&D mounts, check them out at pyiiinc.com  if you want to order r&d mounts pride marine in kingston can get them. thats where i bought a set.  pridemarine.com

Somewhat related - If anyone is selling their stock looking tabernacle mast step then I'd be interested in buying one..... CHeers

--Stef

by registering the vessel you don't pay sales taxes.  not sure what happens if you're bringing a boat built out of canada into canada, but this wouldn't really apply here.  only thing about 'registering' a vessel is 'put every ship a-sail' as told by Johnny Horton.....

yessir.  hard to find anything electric that small so air tools is the way to go.  only problem with something like a die grinder is that you need a fair amount of air to feed it......

This the reason that JJT stopped production of the 26 - simply wasn't a market for it anymore.  To produce a Taylor 26 in the late 80's early 90's would probably be on par with the cost of producing a Catalina or Hunter in the 34 foot range at one of their mega factories.  Now we're a loyal lot, but there's not many people out there who would (could?) spend 50K+ for a 26 foot boat.    In 1990, a  Mirage 29, C&C 27/29, etc were "normal" sized boats.  A CS 36 or a 35 foot Beneteau or Hunter was HUGE.  Look around today - at the marina and the boat show.  The smallest thing anyone shows up with is 32-34 feet but 14 feet wide and displaces 15 000 pounds...  fat ass boats...)  Who cares about the sailing if you're comfortable below. I think that you could fit a whole Contessa 26 into the cabin of one of those behemoth Catalina's or Beneteau 50 footers.......