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Sounds like fun!  Good to hear that these project boats actually make it to the water.  Enjoy the rest of the season!

The cap rails are installed with wood screws.  They're just screwed into the hull deck joint.  If you get a 3/8" forstner bit, you'll be able to remove the plugs in the rail and gain access to the screw heads.  I'd probably (did) remove the rails all together, countersink the screw holes and fill with epoxy and filler.  I still have to redrill and then reinstall the rails- sealing the screw holes with Sikaflex - its not as permanent as 5200...  Might want to make sure that it's not the track thats leaking.......

good luck!!

The red one on Yachtworld - take a look at the picture marked 'safety equipment' and look at the water stains down the liner.  Either someone has improperly installed tie downs for lee cloths, or the genny track is leaking.  Either way, I'd be willing to bet that based on this picture that the rest of the boat (at  least the parts that you can't see....) are all that much better, and right off the bat 22K is way too much for this boat.  Just my opinion....  Cheers

Stefan

I'd like to see some pictures of the bottom of the rudder with this new fangled contraption.  I'll be eventually adding something and this might send me in the right direction.  Or I could produce em and sell em.............

I've got a set of Garhauer Low Lead Cars that I picked up on sale this spring.  Don't know how well they'll work cause I'm still working away, but I think they'll suit just fine.  Cheers!

Don't think that the blue one listed with Pat Sturgeon is actually a 73..... It's got deck drains/scuppers cut into the toe rail.  Same as the 73 on ebay that was actually a 79.  The scuppers were found on later boats, some even had two scuppers..... Don't know when this all got started, but my 74 will throw everyone for a loop now cause now there's 4 scuppers just waiting to get the water off the decks and away from all that new plywood!

Bring/Borrow/Get a hold of a moisture meter and check any boat you look at - all thru deck fitting incl stanchion bases, thru decks for waste and water, and cleats!!!

I've got the original Tom Taylor main that came with my boat.  Don't remember looking too closely at it, it's not completely baffed out from what I recall.  Don't know what it'd be worth, but if you're interested I could dig it out and take some pictures..... It's got numbers (79) so don't know how close that is to yours, but I'd probably remove the numbers.........  Let me know

I was going to machine a new stemhead out of aluminium (this is what I do for a living) but decided that it would really be just too much work and costly materials-wise to be worthwhile.  I'll be making an inverted "T", from 316 SS, to replace the tang on the casting, and thru bolt it along with the casting (with original tang removed).  This will be plenty strong and not as susceptible to "no warning" failure than cast alum.....

Thats what I did - removed the stem fitting and boxed in the glasswork on the forepeak (from the inside) to make it real substantial, and then filled the 4 bolt holes with epoxy from the outside, so now the whole thing is solid.  It was pretty delaminated when I took things all apart.  The stem fitting is like the chainplates - needs rebedding and I'm sure that this is a forgotten item on most boats.  I would think it spends a fair amount of time in the water or wet, and the damage was 30 years done on my boat........

Original setup is 4 thru  bolts with backing plates to port and starboard - it's not 1 backing plate.  I'm making 1 plate with 4 holes.......

The forestay hole is pretty egg shaped on my casting too - this is one of those things that will give you no warning of failure.  It's like rod rigging, you don't have any warning signs about it happening until the mast is in the water.....

Most electronic gadgets will work fine when you dry them out - the important thing being that you don't put power to anything while still wet.  There was an article in SAIL a few years back about this - basically if you've got something thats dead, you might as well take it apart, wash the boards with dish soap and water and a fine nail bruch, dry it out and then try it again.