1 Reply by Cody

(40 replies, posted in Technical)

my contessa will be engineless.  i'm launching next week so i'll let you know how it affects displacement and stability (i'm not expecting it will be very noticable).

in regards to stiffening the boat i concluded additional stringers were not necessary for cruising.  i did plenty of research and thinking, but when you come down to it the generous layup combined relatively small panel size of 26 foot hull appears adequate.  i think a lot of the talk about adding stringers is a band-aid fix for hunters and catalinas with thin laminates.  my 1973 Jeremy Rogers boat has one longitudinal stringer at the waterline. 

my advice is buy one of the boat types you mentioned and start working-  you'll have PLENTY of time to consider what you'll actually do during the fitting out, but there is precious little time to waste before you take the plunge.

-cody

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2 Reply by Cody

(11 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

please delete my duplicates as well!  i had the same problem.

thanks,
cody

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3 Reply by Cody

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

john-

i don't have any advice but would be very interested to hear how your registration goes.

cody

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4 Reply by Cody

(9 replies, posted in For Sale)

i wonder if she planes with that outboard...

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5 Reply by Cody

(18 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

Adrian-

Great work on this new site.  Any possiblility for listing Jeremy Rogers boats on the new listing page?

-Cody

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6 Reply by Cody

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

on my 1974 JR boat the hull-deck joint appears to be a inward facing horizontal flange.  It is bonded with putty and mechanically with bow cleat thrubots.  The bulwarks are part of the hull.

there is also a thru bolt and glassed-in 1' x 1' backing pad amidships.  i'm guess this is a tab from deck piece that is mechanically fastened and bonded to the hull piece.

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7 Reply by Cody

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

What sort of hull-deck joint was used in constuction?

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8 Reply by Cody

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

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9 Reply by Cody

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

does anyone have information regarding construction practices for the jeremy roger's boats?  my 1974 era boat has a center seam which indicates to me the hull was built in two pieces.

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10 Reply by Cody

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

tacking a storm jib between the roller furler genoa seems like a tricky proposition in heavy weather.

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11 Reply by Cody

(4 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

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12 Topic by Cody

(1 replies, posted in Cruising)

Can anyone recommend good resources for sailing in Nova Scotia?  I am familiar with the Maine coast but haven't been past Grand Manan.

Suggestions for towns and interesting spots are welcome!

Thanks,
-Cody

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13 Reply by Cody

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

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14 Topic by Cody

(2 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

not sure about factory specs but i would be suspicious of any "standard".  the sail loft i work for measures every boat we make sails for, even production boats because there is considerable variation among boats of the same class.  sometimes the wrong mast goes on a new boat!  you'd be suprised.  anyway, actually measuring will save you from having new sails recut or improper fit.

find a local sailmaker and talk to him or her about the kind of sailing you do.  your sailing style and local conditions are the most important factors.

best of luck,
cody

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15 Reply by Cody

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

i called the broker for the newburyport boat during my boat search.  the boat is packed in for the winter.  he also revealed that there is a springy crunch noise when you walk on the foredeck (see stefan's pictures for what you will likely find).  broker said not to worry though as it had always been like that.  the owner has daysailed the boat for the past couple years.

but hey, go check out the boat in person.  they sound like nice guys at the yard.  and if it is a bomb you can find out for yourself that just because a boat looks nice in internet pictures it can look and smell awful in reality.  actually, you should expect some smell and rot in the sub $6000 range! 

you should look at as many boats as possible before purchasing.  its a great reality for dreamers like me and you. fortunately i'm not inclined to impulse buying.

yachtworld is a great resource but has limitations for the budget sailor looking for a steal.  ask around about abandoned boats available for "yard bills".  which is what the owner owed/owes the yard.  you'll find some real beauties in this category! 

instead of yachtworld think craigslist.com and owner associations like this one.  maybe even ebay just to keep tabs.  good deals are advertised but be careful.

best of luck and be patient (not having enough money will definately help your patience!)

-cody

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16 Reply by Cody

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

john- i'd love to supply our boat's info for your database but i am not quite sure of the specifics.  i will let you know soon!

for now:

1974 era Rogers Contessa 26
purchased in cincinnati ohio, Nov 2005. 
trailered overland to homeport: padanaram, massachusetts.
winter storage/workspace under construction!
refit to follow...

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17 Reply by Cody

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

the boat listing the john posted is no longer for sale.  i  purchased her and started a refit.

-cody

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18 Reply by Cody

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

yes i bought the boat in ohio with the trailer.  she is very nice and seems structurally sound except for the lack of bulkheads.

-cody

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19 Reply by Cody

(39 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

stay strong young'en.  dream big before you get bogged down in the "real life" shit storm.  why do we aspire to do such masochist things as the mini transat? or the tour de france?  or Paris-Dakar? or Vendee or VOR?  as a recovering racing cyclist, i wonder...

and don't be so young as to ignore advice from experienced people (like the last poster).

my only advice: train, train, train to be one tough mother fucker.  listen to good advice and guidance.

all power to ya and best of luck in your quest.

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20 Reply by Cody

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

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21 Reply by Cody

(8 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

yes i have the dustbin lid and no aft cockpit seat/locker.  so the boat must be JR, right? i wonder how she got over to the US?

also, much of the gear onboard is brittish (winches, hardware) and looks to be the same as on other JR CO26 from the 70's.

does anyone know when JR began using fiberglass headliners? 

thanks
cody

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22 Topic by Cody

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

8 through holes on my boat- all on the starboard side like swiss cheese.  i plan to patch all from the inside before installation of the interior.  (i don't have an inboard engine).

for an emergency bilge pump you can install a Y valve on your engine intake with a hose running in the bilge, as advised by donald street and others.

why not try the head intake off the engine intake?  you could always turn off the head intake while running the engine if you're concerned, provided the valve is easily accessible.

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23 Topic by Cody

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

great pictures man.

-cody

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24 Reply by Cody

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

i haven't removed the entire headliner yet but the coach roof is solid laminate around a vent thru fitting amidships...  i'm hoping this is true for the entire coach roof.  i have plenty of plywood in other places of the boat though, eg. vertical sides of cockpit seats.

i'm working on the best way to remove the headliner in the least pieces and without undue damage and i'm very open to suggestions.

cody

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25 Reply by Cody

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

in the spirit of the "cape horn-contessa 26" thread:

you have a stripped out and older C26: how would you modify the original design to best deal with heavy sailing loads from the mast and standing rigging?  specifically, what would you change in regards to the mast support beam, main bulkhead, mast compression posts and shroud chainplates?  what would you integrate and how?  what materials would you use?

the use of the boat will be ocean sailing, but not necessarily high lattitude extremes or the great capes.  and assume the rum tank is already taken care of...

-cody

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