76

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Any thoughts on putting the radar right at the top of the mast?  I understand that higher is better.  Is the weight an issue?

77

(4 replies, posted in Cruising)

My only comment is based on backpacking rather than boating.  Simple is best!  Alchohol stoves aren't as hot, are harder to fill, and not as nice but they don't break.  I've seen people dismantling and reassemling stoves while getting hungrier and hungrier.  I've even had a guy give me an earful about how poor my stove was and then have his erupt in a huge burst of flame and burn his eyebrows off.  Go simple or be hungry!

I'm looking to buy, rent or borrow:

A Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia

Digby to Cape Breton Island, Including the Bras d'Or Lakes

by Peter Loveridge

If anyone can help out it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

After looking at the costs of a Yanmar GM10 I started checking out other engines.  I too like the idea of dual propulsion.  For this reason I fitted twin 454 cu in engines developing a total of 758 HP.  I can now do 8.3 knots. (see ya tubatooter!)  The only downside has been that the only place to sit is on top of the engines themselves.  They get hot very quickly so that I can actually only run the engines for 22 minutes before my clothing catches fire.  I considered going with asbestos shorts but have decided instead to install a remote control.  I can then run the engines and steer the boat from a safe distance...preferably the shore.

I love the smell of gasoline in the morning.  It smells like lunacy.

Interesting.  300 tons is quite large.  299 is almost as large.  In fact I'm pretty sure 9 tons would do me in!  Still, Halifax harbour is quite busy and this would be a useful too.

Q1: I have been looking at low-cost radar.  From talking to people around the club, there seem to be a lot of used ones on the market.  One person said "they're great radars!  They show you all kinds of things that aren't even there!", and apparently don't show you what *is* there.  It seems that all radars work well in flat seas but when things get rough then that's what separates the good from the bad.  Those who owned cheap radar are unloading them fast. 

Can anyone who has used radar in tall waves make a recommendation?

Q2: I have only one battery, and don't motor enough to charge it that way.  I charge it once or twice during the season and that's it.  Radar must draw quite a bit.  For those of you who have radar, what do you recommend?

thanks!

Is is advisable to mount radar on the mast where it will interfere a bit with the foresale when tacking or on a post which is...well...a post)

I too have an outboard.  There is a cutaway and there's a small circle visible where the prop sharf would come out.  Maybe there's something like that on yours and it means the hole is mostly cut through?  I looked at the cost if putting in a Yanmar 1GM.  It's simply not worth it as you're looking at the engine plus $2k in other expenses.  May cheaper to wait for new electrics coming in the next few years?

84

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Regarding bosun's chair...if you have to go up definitely use the chair.  You don't want to be thinking about hanging on, doing the repair, finding tools, etc., if you're not in a (relatively) relaxed position.  Take a bag or something to hold your tools in as your pockets will be squished.

85

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My first trip up the mast, excluding using the yard's crane, was a memorable one.  I clipped the main halyard to my bosun's chair (a plank of wood with four stout ropes attached to a ring) and had a friend haul me up.  I'd seen this done before.  I'd seen it done on my boat in fact in exactly the same way.  What I didn't account for is that I weigh 210 lbs and the person I'd seen go up before weighed only 150 lbs. 

A pendulum effect ensued.  Or is that a pandemonium effect?

I could easily have worked on the neighbouring boat's mast as it was periodically and frequently within arm's reach, even though there was a slip between us, but would have only had a second or two before I was rudely swung many degrees to the opposite side.  At this point a friend from the yard climbed aboard to take control of the situation.  His 250lbs on top of the coach house may have helped...or maybe not.  Then the original person who had hauled me up decided he'd better get off so he stepped (jumped really) off the coach house onto the side deck with his 225 lbs.  He felt it best to do that at the exact moment we I was accelerating to that side, further adding to my velocity.  Another friend, watching from his boat, later stated that this was the moment he went below as he "could not watch anymore".

Finally someone realized that if they lowered me everything would stabilize.  And, just as Mr. Newton would have predicted, it did.

Lesson learned: sailing may be an art but science still applies.

I have seen pictures of a few CO26s with a hatch behind the mast.  I've heard of people having bubble hatches too.  This seems like a good idea (I could stand up straight to cook!) but I'd like some advice from people who have or have seen them.  Do they make sense?  Do they affect the strength of the coach house, particularly the support for the mast?  Is a bubble better than a square that opens?

That's a very interesting idea.  Unfortunately the v-berth cussions are almost new and were very expensive so I'm not going to cut them up.  That being said maybe I'll modify your idea and have small lockers that hang from the ceiling. 

Any suggestions about what to do from the sink (port) and the stove (starboard) on back to where the cockpit cuts into the quarter berth?

I'm not sure if this will be a spring project as I'm recovering from being hit and run while riding my bicycle.

88

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

A local varnish expert says that temperature variations here in Halifax make it very difficult to do a succesful varnish job.  My nine-coat, follow boat works mag instructions to the letter, took all precautions, tiller varnish job lasted two seasons.  Is Coelan any less sensitive?  I like cetol because it's so forgiving.

My CO26 has an interior made of marine ply and hockey sticks.  It looks nice enough painted white w teak trim and the layout is similar to the factory models.  What she lacks are shelves running either side of the qtr-berth.  I could just copy the original design or I could see if anyone had any better ideas.  In otherwords, if you had bare hull from the qtr-birth up to the liner, what would you put there?

90

(1 replies, posted in Cruising)

91

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

92

(40 replies, posted in Technical)

When you get to Halifax be sure to stay at the Armdale Yacht Club.  We have four Contessa 26s here: Eagh Marrey, Tantrum, Freehold, and...um...another one formerly known as Dragonfly II.

93

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

My mainsheet has a block on each aft quarter running to a block in the centre of the transom under the tiller then forward to a camcleat at the edge of the coming under the tiller.  The problem I have is that if I make a sudden, strong gybe the part of the sheet running to/from the boom to the quarter block bangs into the safety lines very hard.  Sometimes hard enough to pop open the shackels.  Any suggestions?

94

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Yes, please.  And4ew at hotmail.com.

95

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

My wife is taking sailing lessons.  Yesterday she came back from class and said "can we get some of those lazy things?". 

Any recommendations out there?  I've looked at Harken and EZJAX websites but want to hear from someone who's actually used a system.  Also thinking of just buying the parts.  Any designs already existing?

I need to buy a second anchor, or so says my insurance company.  Any recommendations? I already have a Danforth.  Should I get another Danforth or something different?  What weight?  Typically anchoring on east coast costal areas around Nova Scotia.

97

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I don't think I'll be doing it at all.  My interior is not factory built.  I don't know if the roof liner is or not but it completely obscures the fasteners for most of the track.  There's no way I'm going to cut it.

Also, I read in a recent boatworks about the risk of distortion if the the hull/deck joint is removed.  I think I'll just make sure it's well calked and watch for leaks.  With the non-factory interior it's very easy to see the hull if required.

98

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

What kind of fastners did you use to put the new track on?  If you bolted, how did you get to the bolts that are in the middle of the tracks?

99

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I want to re-bed the genoa track mostly as a precaution.  It appears that the only visible fastners are bolts.  Does anyone know if the ones concealed by the edge of the cabin ceiling are screws?  If this question doesn't make sense it could be becuase my interior is not factory built, thpught the cabin top seems to be.

100

(28 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Four?  To quote the Holy Grail "Four is too may.  Five is right out".  Why four?  Is there something specific you are concerned about?