Thanks for the information Christopher. I called Guy this afternoon (yes, he still works there). he asked, as you mentioned, for the part # on the injector pump and the engine serial #. The part # on my particular pump is FAOARO55BO523 and is manufactured by Bryce. There is also the # ZROO271 stamped on it. Anyway, Guy tells me the injector pump is still available from England and he'll give me a price tomorrow, hope its not too expensive.

                                                            Thanks Again
                                                                  John

anyone have or know where I can locate an injector pump for an AC1WM Petters diesel in Ontario (or anywhere for that matter)?

                             Thanks
                                 John

I am installing a traveller this year and would be interested. Are they suitable for Harken track and are there pics available?

                                            John

29

(5 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

I was wondering why I hadn't heard from her regarding the tiller replacement.

                                                Cheers
                                                     John

30

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

31

(3 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

Thank you Adrian, your work here is much appreciated.

32

(24 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Yes I've got them and they look absolutely fantastic in the basement, Ha! I hope to get them on this winter.
Anyway it looks like the 10th is a good day. I don't know a location or time yet, I'll try to find a floor plan and see where the bar is.

33

(24 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Hope everyone's Christmas season is going well and a Happy New Year to all. We're getting closer to launch day, (only 4 1/2 months away), but there is the Toronto Boat Show first, Jan 10 to 18. Anyone have any preference for a date we can all meet and have a beer?

                                               Cheers to all
                                                    John & Jane

34

(24 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Me too!

I did send a template of my rudder to Ricardo (user name cardin1), perhaps you could e-mail him for a copy

                                                      Cheers
                                                          John

Welcome to the group and welcome to the neighbourhood! There are a few members local to you and sometime this spring Jane and I will be hosting a renaming ceremony for our ongoing project as she's going in the water in May. All interested parties are welcome so hope to meet you then. I'll post details as we know them.

                                                                See you on the water
                                                                      John & Jane

P.S.  Whats your sail #?

The 12 or 19 would be O.K. with me. I'm disappointed I missed last year so am making a point of attending, it'll be great to meet all who attend and put faces to names. I'll watch this space for time and location.

I did that and your right, I now know all about 314 and 316 stainless. I know the tensile strength yeild, the modulus of elasticity (200 gpa for 314 if anyone is interested), the specific heat capacity, the hardness brinell AND the hardness knoop..........ect. ect.     Help! I need a translator for this foreign language.

I'm moving the chainplates to the outside of the hull. Each one will be approx. 14" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" stainless steel. I've been told I need 314 stainless but I'm having trouble finding it, I have found an available supply of 316 stainless. Any one know the difference and would the 316 work for me?

I'm sorry I don't need a Petters engine but could you please post some info on the electric installation. I've been looking for something along those lines and would be most interested.

41

(28 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I too had thought of adding a shoe to the bottom aft of the keel but have since decided its too risky. If the keel ever came aground the shoe could possibly be bent enough to prevent operation of the rudder. I am, however, adding a strip of heavy rubber to the bottom of the keel so that it overlaps the gap between the keel and the rudder. This will prevent snagging any underwater lines. That was my main concern with the rake of the rudder.
                                               Cheers
                                                  John

My rudder, as it so happens, is at the fiberglass repair shop having not been reinstalled on the boat yet. I'll be there next weekend. I'll try to  trace a template if you're interested? I could also ask for a quote to manufacture a copy, are you within reasonable shipping distance of Toronto?

                                                                Cheers
                                                                    John

When I had the hull repaired and gelcoated a small crack was discovered at a through hull on the aft starboard side at the waterline (see photo in the gallery). Three of use went over the boat and could find no use for the fitting so I had it removed. Do you think any of us noticed there was no exit for the bilge pumps! The problem now is I'm loath to drill another hole in my beautiful hull if I don't have to. Any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated. Is it possible to twin the bilge exit with another through hull perhaps?

                                                               Cheers
                                                                     John

44

(3 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

45

(11 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

Hi Adrian

    The new gallery is a wonderful addition. I tried uploading a photo and it keeps saying the gallery file doesn't exist, I tried three times and then gave up and exited. I then see three images posted. Sorry, but could you remove two of them. I don't think people want to see that disaster three times in a row!

                                                 Thanks for the great gallery
                                                         John

46

(3 replies, posted in Cruising)

Good luck and fair winds to Nelleke! I hope we can look forward to updates along the way. It's always a pleasure to read about someone living the dream.

                                              Cheers
                                                    John

47

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The DC system should be an isolated system on a boat, any stray voltages will rapidly increase corrosion of metalic parts. What you're describing is the grounding of the rigging & mast in case of a lightning strike. I should also add that its a good idea to isolate the shore power ground either with a ground isolator or better yet, an isolation transformer of suitable size for your system (voltage and wattage). Make sure you don't remove the ground (bad things can happen) but just isolateit. This might sound complicated or unnecessary but what you're trying to do is eliminate any electrical paths between your boat and any neighbours or piers. Marinas with supplied shore power are usually full of small underwater electrical currents, most of which can be rendered ineffective through proper grounding and the use of zinc anodes on exposed metalic surfaces.

                                               Cheers
                                                     John

Just for information, the picture below is 'the old man in the sea' and not a self portrait as has been suggested by someone I know.

48

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Any commercially available battery charger will have (should have) a built in diode to allow current flow in only one direction so back charging won't be a problem. If you have more than one battery you may want an isolator to prevent draining of the engine starting battery. This will allow both batteries to charge but only one will be used for running onboard electronics. You can build one yourself but commercially available ones are cheap enough.

                                    Cheers
                                         John

49

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

The Contessa measures 8'7'' from bottom of the keel to top of hump in the coach roof. mine sits at 10'4'' when on the trailer with the top of the pulpit at 10'9'' but could always remove it. Hope this helps.
                                                           John

50

(7 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Hi Jose C

    I apperciate the offer very much. I too am at Harbour West (currently parked in front of the Waveline faculities) but I'm moving it to my house for the summer... yes I know its away from the water but she needs considerable work on the deck. I don't have alot of experience with stoves but I'll certainly help in any way, after all, who dosen't enjoy a good fireworks display!  (Just kidding but I do have a brand new fire extinguisher). I take it your boat isn't in Hamilton yet? I look forward to seeing her.

                                         John