101

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I will try to fidgureout how to post pictures,and typically this could take alittle while.The stove is home made,builder unknown,of heavy mild steel.It is a little industrial looking but I like it anyway.The three inch pipe,deckiron and cap are all from Dickinson I believe.The cap comes with a rubber gasket instead of permanent bedding,a great convience for cleaning.The cap is round with an inner top cap,maybe not the best,but the best to fall on,a consideration here.I made a dounot? of glassed plywood to shim the cap verticial on the outside a surprisingly difficult job on this boat but it looks pretty hobo if you don't.The inside was ended up taking quite a while as well,and you maybe learn more than you want to know about these boats,however I haven't seen one I like better.The Contessa is pretty sweet.Bilge

102

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

After six months or so with my wood stove,I can say it has worked great.I installed it on the starboard side with two drawers and a bin underneath.The stovepipe exits about six inches aft the main bulkhead and about eighteen off center.The stove has a cooktop with sea rail and is front openingThere is four inches air space all round with stainless surround and A quarter inch air space behind.The bulkheads stay cool and the deck head only gets very warm.The boat is toasty and the stove holds a fire all night.The ashes are noticably messy on such a small boat.I discovered last night why stoes are mounted fore and aft where feasable when a round rolled out while feeding the stove and not really paying attention.This can happen with any orientation but is more likely with the athwart ship opening.Some modification is in order.The offending round was kicked into the ash bucket and tossed back inside,all monentarily exciting.I sail yearround here  and heat goes a long way towards making this a pleasure.I love being in a snug anchorage,when theweather clamps down  and I am snug with a good book,hot tea and a roaring fire,highly reccomended.Cheers Bilge

103

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Still waiting for that pic Kristin.Bilgeret

104

(9 replies, posted in Technical)

And please read breast line as spring,duh.

105

(9 replies, posted in Technical)

Ran out of time at the libary.I meant to add:With a full keeled boat The helm should almost always be amidships when reversing.You correct your line of travel by putting the boat in forward momentarily and putting the helm down to line the boat up and then reversing again.Ideally the boat will not gather any forward momentum and you will back up in the desired direction.You will loose a tiny bit to one side each time depending on which way your boat walks.If you try and use more than a degree or two of helm to steer while in reverse,the rudder will suddenly bite and swing the bow around fairly sharply.Unless that is what you want it is best to hold the tiller amidships.The engine is really an auxillary on this boat meant to get it back to port not a maneuvering device so there is no shame at all in pushing the boat in and out of the slip by hand if that is the sensible thing to do,and it often is.Commericial fishind boats here always have a breast line tied amidships that is the first and last thing to be tied to the dock.It snubs the boat and draws it in sideways in an orderly fashion.This is an especially good thing if you have wind or current behind you.Some places it is hopeless to try and power this boatin or out of a slip.....You can counter the prop walk somewhat by making an "S" turn when entering a slip.This takes a little experience.If the boat walks to starboard and you are making aport tie you approach at say a twenty degree angle after turning in,and about ten feet from where you want to stop with the bow very close to the dockyou swing the bow out and put the boat in reverse.The monteum of the stern coming around cancels the prop walk.This is more of a power boat manouver and I have to admit it dos;ent always happen that way,which is when a breastline or a boat hook could come in handy,not to mention a shipmate and some fenders.

106

(9 replies, posted in Technical)

As mentioned the key element in boat control is steerage way which takes some time to happen with such a small engine.You need to anticipate where the boat is going to go depending on wind and current that day,something that will come with time.The more wind and current the more you need way,unless of course it is pushing you,which personally I find the most hair raising or falling as it were..If you are uncomfortable ,handlining theboat out and stepping aboard from the bow works for exiting a finger slip.I find the boat handles very predictibly in calm conditions .

107

(6 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Maybe let it burn down until the flame is small,snuff it and refill with the cheap stuff,methyl hydrate.It will take about a litre.It may have residue from the other products.Rotate the dial twice always to insure that it is off.Low fuel is the only time mine has fumed in about twelve or more years using it every day.good luck

108

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

If it is the Cinkel boom it has three little levers that are clutches.I don't find that they are all that positive locking and the lead is ackward so the reef lines are currently cleated on my boat.That could change in time.My tack is shackled.The reefing line is tied to a screwed in eye below the leech gromets,goes up thru the gromet into the end of the boom and out at the googe neck to be clutched there if you trust them.It is fairly tidy I guess andyou cando most of the reefing operation from the mast.I would imagine there are infinite varations .Whatever works.

109

(28 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The shoe on the bottom is astandard solution.Enough trama to remove that little nub would likely as not be enough to sink the boat and actually adds some grounding protection to the rudder.The materials to do the job would be less than a hundred bucks.While it is nothing to brag about I plowed over a reef at seven knots with my last boat.That boat drew four and a half feet,the reef had less than three feet over it.Damage to the supported rudder,nil.Incidentally,this was a full keeled boat as well,the best for reef bashing.

110

(28 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

When I get time,I plan to glass a shoe with a socket in it to the back of the keel .This would recieve a bronze pin attached to the bottom of the rudder.The socket could be Lignum Vitae,nylon,carbon or whatever is easiest and long wearing.That would seem to address most of the issues other than weight.

111

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

One thing about lazy jacks on a Bermudian rig,the head board can get snarled in the tangle at the most inconvient times,as you try to raise it.They make a lot more sense on a Junk or Gaffer where the yard guides the sail up thru the lines.Some like em,I don't.Books by Brian Tross or John Leather could be the best sorces for the info you want.

My 82 has the midship hatch and maybe the lowered sole as the settees are a little higher than ideal;just to maintain the historicial J.J.T.,murkiness.I think it is 18 inches from the bottom of the sole to the top ofthe ballast.I wonder if this depth changed with the ballast type,indicating which boats have which.

113

(2 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Other than price,that seems like a good idea.I have used a variation of that at my old cabin up the coast.I don't use the head on this boat at all,and especially the holding tank,yick.There allways seems to be a suitable alternative,so far,but I avoid busy anchorages and such.It always strikes me as a very Victorian contriavince,the little machine that makes nasty things go away;well ahh,until it plugs at the most inconveinent of times and You are left to wrestle with the unsavory beast in the little compartment.One of the boats I owned had a chart table,with chart stowage in the former head space and I am considering this....The other objectionablethings about holding tanks are,maintaining,,pumping andthe chemicials involved;where do they ultimely end up?So yeah I am all for a bucket where appropriate and a bucket and bag where it is not.Good idea.

I just spoke to a rigger today about maybe adding a solent stay.He mentioned that the mast head fitting is also aluminium.They live in different enviroments,but would'nt they be subject to the same stress.The rigger suggested dye testing,unless of courseyou have an obvious problem.I thought the original boat had the fore stay somewhat inboard,which could be stronger.Building something that ran down both sides of the bow in stainless would look good,be extremely strong and also require  a talented fabricator.Would also offer some wharf and anchor pronging protection.

115

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Hi Deb.The table hooks over the seat rail and a small cleat on the bottom hooks under the trim on the front opening locker.As long as the seat rail and the lower peice of trim are parallel to one another,the table can be positioned any where fore and aft.Some boats will have to have along peice of trim added to the lower berth front(parallel to the seat rail).Anybody is welcome to use the idea.It's worked great for me.Bill

Oh yeah ,20 knots seemed to be the upper happy range for jib and flattened,started main.

I tried the working jib out for the first time last week and the boat was noticably faster up wind compared to the rolled genoa I had on the day before.It also moved along nicely down wind in the dying breeze.A reefing 110 with three reefs in the main would be my choice if I only had two sails and a motor.I hope to aquire a storm jib in the fall and meanwhile funtion with #2,#3,cruising chute andthree reef main.It does seem like a highly subjective thing.

118

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My pump went south today on the eve of a big trip.West had a rebuild kit for 22 dollars much to my surprise.This pump is red,Canadian made and called a "guzzler",forget the manafacturer but I think they must be in Windsor.It is comparable to the gulper or urchin by Whale.A bit light duty but it does move a surprising amount of water.

119

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Weirdly enough,I measured my meager inventory,and inspected the furler to see how much hassle it was to get rid of today.The jenny is 31 on the luff and13.5 on the foot.How about a reefing 110.The furler has much to reccomend it but I am never happy with the shape in a strong breeze going to weather.My impression is that it is the people not the company that matter .North could be great in one town and suck in another.The person that gave great service may move to another company.Wre fortunate to have some really great companies in Victoria.My understanding is that all the sails are made offshore now.I  will almost certainly get mine through the local loft ,U.K. in this case as they did a great job in the past and showed great patience with my idiot questions,i.e. could you make that jib in 18 oz cloth to which the reply was,"are you planning on storing it on edge".Bilge

120

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Anybody used the Delta plow extensively.I bought a 22lb as my bower and the 7.5K bruce is now second banana.I am not a fan of the bruce.What about some of the C.Q.R. knock offs.The Hiscocks stated that 35 pounds was the minium usefull size for a plow.I have a Northhill as a kedge,good if you can find one and it will bite where a bruce won't,however it is liable to foul.Whats working for you.

121

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I tried the cheap fix a few years ago on another boat and it worked for a while but ultimately failed.The Whale/henderson diaphrams are formed in such a way that they can be flexed many thousands of times without stressing the seal or itself.The flat home made diaphram is stretched each time the pump is stroked so that eventually something has to give.I was a lot happier with the kit in the pump,my thinking being that when you "need" a pump,you really need it.

I am thinking ,one possibility is to build a teak grate at toe rail height all the way forward with a low bulkhead aft to contain the rode .Could be a little tight.When you were laying up or crossing an ocean the dryed rode could be stuffed in the chain locker or bought aft.I will be using the milk crate this summer,with hopefully something smarter looking next year.Stefan,sometimes it,s better to revisit a building problem later so it dosen't slow the rest of the project.Good luck

Nobody wanted to spend half the morning shoving the (wet) rode back into the chain locker on my old sea bird yawl so we coiled it down in a milk crate secured to the deck.Wesailed around Vancouver island like this,and it worked well in all kinds of weather.My last boat i made a purpose built box for this and despite burying the bow and a good bit of the trunk cabin on a few occasions it stayed put.Comericial fish boats use a deck mounted reel winch,very secure and heavy.The Contessa is a little dainty for such a homely solution but it works well.Cheers Bill

Yeah,that looks a lot more straight forward,like you might be tempted to look in more than once a decade.In the same vein I still can't get the air filter off,but there must be something I am not seeing.(On the faryman)

125

(21 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have seen that stuff,and it may be called edge banding.A cabinet shop or hi-grade lumber store would carry it almost for sure.In Victoria ,Windsor Plywood is where I would call;don't know if you have  those on the mainland.Good Luck.I noticed the mistake before the glue had set saving many hours of work and grumbling.As they say ,if you do nothing you will never make a mistake,and boy have I made a lot of them....Bill(ge)