On my JJT CO26, built in 1981:

1.  Height of the transom rail above the static water line?   
     At Centerline, transom cap rail to DWL = ~67cm (~26 3/8 inches)

2.  Angle of the transom to the static water line?   
     approx ~48 Degrees

3.  Thickness of the transom?   
     ~3cm (~1.2 inches)

The question is related to VMG (velocity made good) to describe boat speed made relative to the direction of the wind.
VMG/sailing performance for specific boats on various points of sail is sometimes described by way of a polar plot or polar diagram. The information that supports these diagrams is derived from velocity prediction programs (VPP), which take into account the boat's displacement, sail area, and righting moment.  Using a polar diagram for a particular boat, the crew on board is able to gauge the boat speeds that they should be able to attain for best performance for that boat design on every point of sail.

From what I can tell the development of polar plots for various designs seems to be a relatively recent thing. 
Since the CO26 is an older design, I am curious whether a polar diagram has ever been developed for our boats?

Does anyone know if a polar plot diagram was ever published for the JJT Contessa 26?
If so, I would love to get my hands on a copy.  Thanks.

4

(3 replies, posted in For Sale)

I looked into this a few years ago.  Depending on the carrier, you can expect to spend anywhere from  $5-6k shipping a CO26 across from Halifax to Vancouver.

My 81 JJT CO26 has a center hatch that looks to have been installed as original equipment (Atkins Hoyle - as are the forward hatch and the midships opening portlights).  It does not have the raised coachroof.   The ice box is on starboard side under the "chart table", while the sink andwater tank are on port side (water tank is under the port settee bunk).   There is also a (seldom used on our boat) color-matched fiberglass insert that fits into the floor hatch in the center cabin floor that gives about 6" additional headroom by the "chart table".

6

(9 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I believe Sailrite offers plans and a kit to make one of these jib bags.   
When at anchor, I often stuff the headsail in its bag while the sail is still hanked on and then use the halyard to lift the bag off the deck.   This keeps the sail contained and gives enough room to still work the anchor tackle.

7

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Our CO26 is set up with 3/8" dia. line for the mainsail leech reef points.

This is great!  Thanks for posting the pics!

I recall using a dimension of 22" on each side of the rudder, when I was sizing my transom lettering. 
I will try to confirm this on the weekend and provide a pic.

10

(21 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Shannon,
In Vancouver, the closest source I have found for edgebanding in several varieties of wood is Windsor Plywood, located on West 7th Avenue (at Fir).   You could also try PJ White Hardwoods (Kent St.) or Absolutely Hardwoods in New Westminster.   Let me know how you make out.

These modifications are great!  Thanks for sharing them!

Re: Farymann K34M starting.  In over 5 years of ownership and regular use, we have never had any problems starting the engine.  We have been fortunate to have the engine start everytime on the first go (except when I have forgotten to open the fuel supply valve at the tank big_smile ).   

BTW: I can also vouch for my experience with the folks at Entec West.  I have had great support and prompt service when ordering the occasional replacement part for the engine.

Hi Adrian,
It seems, when uploading images to the gallery, that the system gives a message saying the upload has failed.  As a result, I uploaded again and there are now duplicate images of Aventura at Pirates Cove on the site.  Would you please delete the duplicate?  Thanks.
JXG

14

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I just replaced two of the foresail halyards on my 1981 JJT CO26 and bought 90ft of 7/16" for each one.  These run through turning blocks at the base of the mast to line clutches on the cabin top on each side of the companionway hump.   This also makes them long enough to use for lifting something from the water to the foredeck, when necessary.

15

(5 replies, posted in For Sale)

Check out Yachtworld.com.  There is a CO26 listed for sale in Vancouver, BC

16

(22 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I too would be interested in a group buy on a Cape Horn Windvane for my boat, depending on the discount available.

Some JJT-built CO26’s seem to have caulking on the inboard and outboard sides of the narrow space between the bottom of the wood gunwale trim/toe-rail and the top of the fiberglass bulwarks.   On my boat, the toe-rail fasteners are caulked where they are through bolted, but there is no continuous line of caulking between the bottom of the wooden toe-rail and the top of the fiberglass bulwarks. 

Anyone have any thoughts/preferences/experience on whether this area should be caulked?  Thanks.

18

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

We purchased an Achilles LT-2 inflatable dinghy two seasons ago.  After two seasons with this dinghy, we really like it and it has served very well as a tender for our coastal cruising uses. 

Dimensions are:  Length: 7' 4", Beam: 4.0', Weight: 40lbs,  Load Cap: 690 lbs.  Tube diameter is 13".  Two inflatable chambers. 

Advantages: Relatively light and holds two adults comfortably;  Inflates and deflates easily and quickly and is easily stored in its carry bag.   I have found the dinghy quite secure and stable, even two people aboard in rougher water. 

Disadvantages:  I would not want to row long distances in this dinghy, especially against a stronger headwind or tide. ( Note:  A small outboard of 2-3hp would probably be a help when using it in larger/more exposed anchorages).   Also, one needs to be more careful than with a hard dinghy on rocky shores/beaches.

Since the dinghy is a continuous tube, including the transom, this dinghy does not have self-bailing capability, from the factory.   When towing the LT-2 in rougher weather, the wind can blow it around quite a bit (even against the hull).  Also, water spray or rain can accumulate in the dinghy, making it heavy and hard to tow and very difficult to lift/drain out the water.   We have avoided this, by: 1) having the dinghy tied upside down on the foredeck on shorter passages, or 2) deflating and stowing the dinghy, either on the foredeck or below, when making longer passages in rougher weather.  Since it can be quickly inflated and deflated/stowed (<10 minutes, each way), this is not usually a problem.

19

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

I installed a Racor R120 filter/water separator with a spin-on filter (with the 2 micron R-12S filter element) four years ago.  I replace the filter at the beginning of each sailing season (and also keep a spare filter element on board at all times.  Has served me really.

Jobe

I am very impressed... a huge project!  Thanks for putting up the pics.