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Some diesels do infact need the glowplug to start - the temperature at the end of compression in an average ambient temperature is not high enough to sustain combustion.  On most, a glowplug is a helper for starting, allowing combustion to occur while the rest of the system (cold block, head, etc) would pull too much heat from the fuel charge that is just barely igniting.  This is when you end up just cranking and cranking, building some heat in the system until a temperature that will sustain combustion is reached, allowing the cycle to continue on its own.  This is why as you crank and crank, you can see some smoke coming out of the exhaust, but mostly just see and smell unburnt fuel.  And then, hopefully, she goes.... 

Most likely the culprit is a dirty injector tip and an injector that needs adjustment.  Sailboat engines tend to carbon up a lot faster than say, a bobcat, because they never reach an operating temperature that allows for more complete combustion of the fuel charge (the hotter you run, the more effecient or complete you burn your fuel charge).  Incomplete combustion happens to everyone....  (And if it doesn't then let me know becuase I want my name in the textbook too)  This is why we should all be pulling our injectors every other year and having them cleaned and set.

the usual causes of dumping smoke out of a diesel are improper injection timing - caused by many things including injector(s) popping too soon, injection pump wear and/or failure - or blow by (burning oil).  based on the hard to start issue, i'd say its a fuel delivery problem.  best bet is to pull the injector, have it cleaned and set to the opening pressure listed in the service manual.  if the engine is equipped with glow plugs, check functionality of them as well. (might need a meter...)  reinstall, bleed, and giv'er.  ensure that the fuel lift pump is operational and providing low pressure fuel to the injection pump inlet.  start with the simple and go on to more complex.  if this doesn't work, pull the injection pump and have it bech tested and set if necessary.  check the injection timing in accordance with the service manual. 

unfortunately, if you're not doing most of this yourself you might just be better off scrapping the farymann after the simple stuff doesn't cure the problem as labour costs in diagnosing and repairing can quickly come close to or even exceed the cost of repowering.  not to mention the reliability and simplicity of a newish yanmar - but don't expect to get your 8 grand back out of the boat.  if you're thinking of sellin then just leave the engine issues for someone else........

Looking at some newer JJT boats, the scupper is just a cut out in the hull/deck joint.  There some alumiuium caps (U shaped) that cover up the putty/glass work on the outside, and they generally look sloppily done - overly thick gelcoat which crazes like mad (what else is new...).  As long as care is taken to glass over well and seal up the hole, the small size of the cutout won't weaken the hull deck joint significantly - unless you've got an earlier JJT boat that doesn't have real compression posts..... 

I'm just going to determine the best location, cut and glass away. Maybe if I have time, I'll machine some caps to keep the rubrail line flowing, but then again maybe not.  I've got a nice building over the boat for the winter (it's in the driveway) and up to 55000 btu's/hr of propane warmth at my disposal, so hopefully she'll see the water sometime in the spring or early summer.  That is if I don't find any new jobs to add to the list.......

Add another to the list.  I found hull 295, a 1982 boat.  "Tilikum II".  Iroquois / 1000 Islands, Ontario Canada.

Guess that they didn't make too many boats in the early 80's.....

Sure looks nice next to that Tanzer... My Dad snapped a photo of one next to a Grampian 26.  You know which one looks fatter...  But I've hit my head so many times, possibly numbing myself to the fact that he who has headroom laughs last........

I'm in complete agreement that these were not really the best built boats.  There's lots of fiberglass and resin, but boy do they ever have their weak points.  With a bit of modification and a lot of mess, you can have one helluva solid boat.  Which is what I'm doing.  But out of the factory they were built with techniques of the era at best, and a lot of the work seems to have been done very slopilly, and now they're all 30 years old....  Anyone at all who wants to disagree can come over and see my boat all apart.

Standard Operating Procedure...

Shaft Brake.  No engine at all.  Two bladed prop, a reference mark on the shaft, access hatch in the cockpit and you line up the prop in the lee of the keel.

Didn't see that last post...  Theres *two* pages...  Wow.

The guys from the book were smart.  They didn't have an engine to worry about.  One less thing to pick out of the bilge........

A couple of pad eyes on the engine beds and some ratchet straps then - cinch em down when you're done motoring.  And a notice on the panel: "Remove before... Bang. Stop.  (starting)."

A Yanmar on a set of Yanmar mounts would't move much if inverted, as long as the mounts were good....  Should wind up in the same place when you get the heavy side down and shiny side up again?....

Check out eBay for ports.  Keep a watch, every few days or so.  I bought a set of Bomar cast alums, 4x12 for the Vberth, and 2 sets of Bomar Passage Stainless ports, 6x18 for the main cabin ports.  It will require a bit of glasswork to close up the aft cutout, but they'll look (and work) great.  Total cost:  less than the list price of one Bomar cast alum port.