1

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Glad to hear that the board is still active.  It must be a frustrating battle trying to hold back the automated spam!

Adrian, funny you're considering a Cape Dory 25D...  I just sold a late model Cape Dory 26D a couple weeks ago.  I bought it on eBay, solid but neglected.  I went through it top to bottom getting it squared away again, and then sailed it home from the Chesapeake.  After sailing it in Maine this summer I decided I was ready for another project, so listed the CD on the web.  To my surprise it was under agreement in 2 days!  So much for the recession...

The 26D is a rather rare CD which many consider to be an improvement on the 25D.  Same basic hull but stretched out an extra foot in the stern to avoid the "chopped off" look of the 25D.  Has a nice lazarette aft of the cockpit, and also has the traditional V-berth layout down below instead of the head-forward layout of the 25D.  One big advantage over the CO26 is its 5'11" standing headroom.  I think you'd be quite happy with the quality of materials and workmanship on a Cape Dory!  I still have the listing and photos of the 26D on the web at http://www.interlakes.org/ilhs/faculty/bburke/cd26d.htm if you're interested... 

Anyhow, l'm hoping to find a solid but simply-outfitted Co26 for my next boat.  Time to start watching the listings again - and the posts here!

2

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Hello, anybody here??

I sold my Contessa a few years ago and haven't stopped by the forum for a while.  Now I'm considering another Contessa and came back here for some research, but the board seems dead...  like everybody packed up and left.  What happened?  Seemed like a thriving community a couple years ago.  I guess this is what it felt like in 1872 when they first found the Mary Celeste at sea under full sail with all the crew missing...

3

(0 replies, posted in For Sale)

Just noticed this Contessa 32 on eBay, for sale with no reserve.  It's currently at $15k with two days left - looks like somebody may be in for a sweet deal!

http://tinyurl.com/4ftqde

4

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

OSPREY has been sold...

5

(4 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Dusty,
The trip from Panama up the West Coast is a long upwing slog...  As long as you're going offshore on the Atlantic side, do the Pacific side right and go to Hawaii, then run north until you pick up the westerlies to take you home to Alaska.  There's a reason sailing ships did it this way for centuries...  I did a similar trip north to BC about 15 years ago and we were rarely close hauled that whole leg of the trip.  The only danger is that once out in the Pacific, you might like it and head south for the Marquesas instead!  wink
Bill

6

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

I know this isn't a Contessa, but it's about as close as a boat can get to being it's big brother...

With mixed feelings, we’ve decided to put Osprey, our Alberg 30 up for sale.  As our kids are rapidly growing up we’ve decided that it’s time to start planning another extended family cruise.  Having previously lived aboard a 37’ trimaran when the kids were in elementary school, we realize that Osprey isn’t big enough for extended sailing with two adults and two teenagers.  Weekends yes, but not long term… 

Osprey has been primarily daysailed on a freshwater lake in New Hampshire for several decades.  She has been well maintained in above average condition.  Upgrades include a Vetus/Mitsubishi diesel engine (less than 200 hours), complete exhaust system, fuel tank, sails, self tailing winches, Harken traveler, throughhulls, chainplates, and much more.  She's an exceptionally solid boat with no deck or hull issues, fully ready to go.  Most recent work has been functional upgrades that made Osprey more seaworthy and mechanically squared away.  Still on the project list are primarily cosmetic items including some of the brightwork and some painting down below.

Price $17,950.  Details at ...

It's also reported that an Alberg 30 can relieve the symptoms of four-foot-itis, at least temporarily!  wink

Regards,
Bill

7

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

John,

The standpipe transducer installation is very common in tugs and other commercial vessels (except that it's usually a steel pipe or box instead of PVC...).  My Alberg 30 has a similar setup and it works great (thanks to the PO).  You can use any stock through-hull transducer with this setup.  It's also easier to service or replace should it fail.

If you go with the "hockey puck" transducer take the time to build a horizontal mounting surface rather than just mounting it flush with the hull.  This can be done using a wedge shaped plastic form as a mold for thickened epoxy (a waxed cottage cheese container works well and removes easily).  Cut it to fit the curve of the hull and seal around the outside of the base to prevent leakage while the epoxy sets up.  You'll get better depth results on both tacks this way.

Bill

8

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

1974 Contessa 26 for sale on eBay
Located Nova Scotia
http://tinyurl.com/35zj7w

One quick test is to puncture one of the larger blisters (be careful of youe eyes, as the fluid can spray out).  If the fluid has a strong vinegar-y smell it indicates osmosis and dissolving resin...  Opening up a few representative larger ones will also give you an idea of their depth.  You can temporarily fill and fair them and sail for the season, now having some knowledge that will help you plan your long term strategy...

10

(22 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Couple of Navik vanes for sale on eBay now...

http://tinyurl.com/ysrn7z

http://tinyurl.com/2y7gpl

11

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

John,

Despite the recommendation for 4500 lb breaking strength, I'd stick with 1" 4000 lb rated webbing vs the 2" 6000 lb rating.  The 2" webbing will be very cumbersome in a tether clip, and if it's not easy you won't use it. 

I'm also a certified mountain guide and we use 1" tubular webbing to build anchors that people regularly fall vertically onto with resultant large loads.  The loads you'll see in jacklines should be significantly less in the vast majority of cases.  In addition, the jackline system is only as strong as your attachment points.  Will they hold more than 4000 lbs?  (would you be able to lift your boat on two of them?)  Maybe yes for the bow cleats, maybe no for smaller padeyes...

Remember that many more people go overboard because they lose their balance and stumble, than in big dramatic knockdowns or pitchpoles.  This is mostly what you're trying to prevent.  As long as you buy the good tubular webbing rather than the flat sailtie stuff and remember that nylon breaks down over time from UV exposure and replace it regularly (depending on how many days you're out sailing each year) you'll be fine.

Bill

12

(0 replies, posted in Cruising)

I saw this software reviewed and thought it might be of interest, especially at this price!  Anyone using it now that can share thoughts?  I'm just starting to play with it this winter...

Yes, I can't wait for the hard water to thaw here in New England!


http://www.sping.com/seaclear/

"SeaClear is a PC based chart plotter for Windows 2000/XP/NT/95/98/ME. With a GPS connected it displays the current position, speed, heading and other data on the screen. The chart is repositioned and new charts
are loaded automatically as needed. Tracks may be saved to file for later reviewing and log book entries can be manually and automatically entered. Unlimited number of routes and waypoints can be created and used to assist the navigation. The screen area for charts is maximized with most functions accessed with the right mouse button. Zooming is provided with support for IntelliMouse wheel. SeaClear is created for nautical navigation but can probably be used for other navigation needs."

13

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

Thanks for the inquiries...  the sea anchor is spoken for.

Congrats Shannon!  Guess you'll have to change your profile from "Ex-Rhiannon" now!
What's the new boat's name?

15

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

... and yes, it comes with the deployable storage bag and the optional trip line and recovery float...

Bill

16

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

Hi all,
I have a Para-Tech Sea Anchor that I bought for the Contessa I no longer own...  It's the 9 ft diameter model, rated for up to 8000 lbs displacement.  A friend bought it for a Bermuda trip in his Freedom 28 in June 2005.  It was carried for the trip but never used, and I bought it from him last winter.  I never even got it close to the ocean.  I now am sailing and restoring a 9000 lb Alberg 30, and need the next size larger sea anchor.  The 9 ft, 8000 lb rated size goes for $370 at West; I'm selling this 1 1/2 year old, never deployed one for $265. 

Having carried and used sea anchors on several ocean crossings, I can honestly say that I wouldn't go offshore in a small boat without one.  For more info check out the manufacturer's web page:  http://www.seaanchor.com/seaanchor.htm


Happy new year to everybody in Contessa-land!

Bill

17

(2 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Interesting idea, but I'd be really leery of mounting the sheet on the gallows.  The leverage up that high would put huge loads on the gallows bases.  An accidental gybe could rip the gallows right off.  I'd run a traveler on the aft deck between the gallows uprights instead.  The other advantage of keeping the sheet down low is you can use the mainsheet to lock the boom down in the gallows when motoring, when tying in a reef, etc.  With the sheet mounted up high on the gallows the boom would be too close to do this - the sheet would be two-blocked before the boom was down...

18

(0 replies, posted in For Sale)

Saw this on the Pacific Seacraft board and thought it may be of interest to those CO26 owners thinking of repowering...   Bill


yanmar 8hp, New PS25 fuel tank....FOR SALE in florida
Posted by: "loki9loki" underdog.57@hotmail.com 
Thu Dec 14, 2006 4:37 pm (PST)

Just acquired Sea Hag. Florida wants sales tax if I have a motor.I
would rather lower the center of gravity, while creating a whole lot
of storage space.If interested it is still in boat and runs very good
so you can see for yourself, or hire a local mechanic to go over it if
you can't get here. Everything to do with it goes. 2000.00

Remember that your rig is only as strong as it's weakest component.  If you increase the diameter on your standing rigging, make sure you thoroughly inspect the chainplates and the chainplate bolts.  If they're questionable (as many are on older boats) your rigging upsize may not increase your rig strength at all...

20

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Peter,
Perhaps the best technique is to set & strike the main in protected waters until you refine your sailhandling technique.  With the main set you can motorsail out the channel, or even set a jib and sail if you want.  A small boat with no sails set is a very unstable platform in a seaway; it's the pressure of wind on sail that steadies things out.  I prefer not to be dancing about an unstable deck whenever possible!

A simple technique that I have used when setting the main singlehanded is to run a bungee cord from the end of the boom to the tiller and motor slowly dead into the wind.  If the boat falls off while the sail is going up the boom will move to the downwind side, pulling the tiller down and steering the boat back up into the wind.  It also works when striking the main...

You might also look at a simple self-steering setup like the Davis Tiller-tamer.   http://tinyurl.com/ynf9m2

Bill

21

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

For those looking for a Contessa-type boat, there's a fiberglass 27' Marieholm Folkboat (sibling to a Contessa) listed on eBay with a starting bid of $99 and no reserve.  It's located in California and might be worth a look for someone in the area...  Details at http://tinyurl.com/ymaeu3

Here's a photo of a Continental 25 if you'd like to see one...
http://tinyurl.com/y83n7m

Looks like a pocket version of an Alberg 30!

Try penetrating oil on the threads, letting it soak in for a week or so.  Then GENTLY tap on the plug to break it free before turning it.  Save heat as a last resort if at all.

Chainplates are available from WM ( http://tinyurl.com/ygcteo ) or any reputable chandler or rigging shop...

Laying up a rudder isn't hard but is timeconsuming so it'll be expensive if you're paying your local boatyard by the hour.  Not hard to do yourself and you can save mucho $$ ...

25

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

If you want to fly two headsails simultaneously (winged out downwind) you need two jib halyards, even if they're hanked onto the same stay.  People also often like a spare rigged when sailing offshore. 

The third is a spinnaker halyard, and is different from the other two in that the spinnaker block at the masthead is ABOVE the forestay.  This is so the halyard doesn't chafe on the forestay when flying a spinnaker.  Even if you have an asymmetrical cruising chute (a great, easy to handle sail as compared to the symmetrical spinnaker that needs a pole etc) you'll still need a spinnaker halyard rig instead of a jib halyard.  Otherwise you'll end up sailing over your chute when the halyard chafes through...

You can certainly get by with just one jib halyard as long as you know its limitations.

(I assume you were referring to the halyards and not the sheets...)