Hello, anybody here??
I sold my Contessa a few years ago and haven't stopped by the forum for a while. Now I'm considering another Contessa and came back here for some research, but the board seems dead... like everybody packed up and left. What happened? Seemed like a thriving community a couple years ago. I guess this is what it felt like in 1872 when they first found the Mary Celeste at sea under full sail with all the crew missing...
The trip from Panama up the West Coast is a long upwing slog... As long as you're going offshore on the Atlantic side, do the Pacific side right and go to Hawaii, then run north until you pick up the westerlies to take you home to Alaska. There's a reason sailing ships did it this way for centuries... I did a similar trip north to BC about 15 years ago and we were rarely close hauled that whole leg of the trip. The only danger is that once out in the Pacific, you might like it and head south for the Marquesas instead!
I know this isn't a Contessa, but it's about as close as a boat can get to being it's big brother...
With mixed feelings, we’ve decided to put Osprey, our Alberg 30 up for sale. As our kids are rapidly growing up we’ve decided that it’s time to start planning another extended family cruise. Having previously lived aboard a 37’ trimaran when the kids were in elementary school, we realize that Osprey isn’t big enough for extended sailing with two adults and two teenagers. Weekends yes, but not long term…
Osprey has been primarily daysailed on a freshwater lake in New Hampshire for several decades. She has been well maintained in above average condition. Upgrades include a Vetus/Mitsubishi diesel engine (less than 200 hours), complete exhaust system, fuel tank, sails, self tailing winches, Harken traveler, throughhulls, chainplates, and much more. She's an exceptionally solid boat with no deck or hull issues, fully ready to go. Most recent work has been functional upgrades that made Osprey more seaworthy and mechanically squared away. Still on the project list are primarily cosmetic items including some of the brightwork and some painting down below.
Price $17,950. Details at ...
It's also reported that an Alberg 30 can relieve the symptoms of four-foot-itis, at least temporarily!
The standpipe transducer installation is very common in tugs and other commercial vessels (except that it's usually a steel pipe or box instead of PVC...). My Alberg 30 has a similar setup and it works great (thanks to the PO). You can use any stock through-hull transducer with this setup. It's also easier to service or replace should it fail.
If you go with the "hockey puck" transducer take the time to build a horizontal mounting surface rather than just mounting it flush with the hull. This can be done using a wedge shaped plastic form as a mold for thickened epoxy (a waxed cottage cheese container works well and removes easily). Cut it to fit the curve of the hull and seal around the outside of the base to prevent leakage while the epoxy sets up. You'll get better depth results on both tacks this way.
One quick test is to puncture one of the larger blisters (be careful of youe eyes, as the fluid can spray out). If the fluid has a strong vinegar-y smell it indicates osmosis and dissolving resin... Opening up a few representative larger ones will also give you an idea of their depth. You can temporarily fill and fair them and sail for the season, now having some knowledge that will help you plan your long term strategy...
Despite the recommendation for 4500 lb breaking strength, I'd stick with 1" 4000 lb rated webbing vs the 2" 6000 lb rating. The 2" webbing will be very cumbersome in a tether clip, and if it's not easy you won't use it.
I'm also a certified mountain guide and we use 1" tubular webbing to build anchors that people regularly fall vertically onto with resultant large loads. The loads you'll see in jacklines should be significantly less in the vast majority of cases. In addition, the jackline system is only as strong as your attachment points. Will they hold more than 4000 lbs? (would you be able to lift your boat on two of them?) Maybe yes for the bow cleats, maybe no for smaller padeyes...
Remember that many more people go overboard because they lose their balance and stumble, than in big dramatic knockdowns or pitchpoles. This is mostly what you're trying to prevent. As long as you buy the good tubular webbing rather than the flat sailtie stuff and remember that nylon breaks down over time from UV exposure and replace it regularly (depending on how many days you're out sailing each year) you'll be fine.
Thanks for the inquiries... the sea anchor is spoken for.
Re: GUESS......................WHAT............?????????????? !!!!!!!!!!! (13 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
Congrats Shannon! Guess you'll have to change your profile from "Ex-Rhiannon" now!
What's the new boat's name?
... and yes, it comes with the deployable storage bag and the optional trip line and recovery float...
Interesting idea, but I'd be really leery of mounting the sheet on the gallows. The leverage up that high would put huge loads on the gallows bases. An accidental gybe could rip the gallows right off. I'd run a traveler on the aft deck between the gallows uprights instead. The other advantage of keeping the sheet down low is you can use the mainsheet to lock the boom down in the gallows when motoring, when tying in a reef, etc. With the sheet mounted up high on the gallows the boom would be too close to do this - the sheet would be two-blocked before the boom was down...
Saw this on the Pacific Seacraft board and thought it may be of interest to those CO26 owners thinking of repowering... Bill
yanmar 8hp, New PS25 fuel tank....FOR SALE in florida
Posted by: "loki9loki" firstname.lastname@example.org
Thu Dec 14, 2006 4:37 pm (PST)
Just acquired Sea Hag. Florida wants sales tax if I have a motor.I
would rather lower the center of gravity, while creating a whole lot
of storage space.If interested it is still in boat and runs very good
so you can see for yourself, or hire a local mechanic to go over it if
you can't get here. Everything to do with it goes. 2000.00
Remember that your rig is only as strong as it's weakest component. If you increase the diameter on your standing rigging, make sure you thoroughly inspect the chainplates and the chainplate bolts. If they're questionable (as many are on older boats) your rigging upsize may not increase your rig strength at all...
Re: anyone know the headroom on the post 1983 models (7 replies, posted in Technical)
Try penetrating oil on the threads, letting it soak in for a week or so. Then GENTLY tap on the plug to break it free before turning it. Save heat as a last resort if at all.
If you want to fly two headsails simultaneously (winged out downwind) you need two jib halyards, even if they're hanked onto the same stay. People also often like a spare rigged when sailing offshore.
The third is a spinnaker halyard, and is different from the other two in that the spinnaker block at the masthead is ABOVE the forestay. This is so the halyard doesn't chafe on the forestay when flying a spinnaker. Even if you have an asymmetrical cruising chute (a great, easy to handle sail as compared to the symmetrical spinnaker that needs a pole etc) you'll still need a spinnaker halyard rig instead of a jib halyard. Otherwise you'll end up sailing over your chute when the halyard chafes through...
You can certainly get by with just one jib halyard as long as you know its limitations.
(I assume you were referring to the halyards and not the sheets...)