126

(21 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

And thanks for posting those photos Adrian.I will check out one of those photo posting sites if I have more,rather than leaning on every one else.Thanks again...Bill

127

(21 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Thanks Shannon.A rude  version would work as  well.By the way,I glued trim on the wrong side of a bulkhead tonight.Bill(ge)

128

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Hey Stefan;a blow by blow account of replacing that genoa track would be interesting.Soundslike a beast.Bill

129

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Sure.My address is bilgeret@hotmail.com.If you mail me then I can send you my table pictures.There are about 12 which is rather a lot but my friend is shutter happy.

130

(21 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I sent them to Adrian to do up in a tech note.Maybe I can fidgure out how to send them to you.The problem is I just don't how to send them here.    Bill

131

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Is the pump still on the right,when you face forward?...bill

132

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have a holding tank and so on,but I may moye it.Actually I never use it,but I want to keep it for going to the U.S. and the odd no discharge zone.I think the early J.R.s had the head up there.For something that gets such little use it takes up a lot of space.

133

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Does anyone know a model of head that would fit into the space between the forward berths.It dosen't appear that a brydon boy will fit.To wide at the base.

134

(10 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Well I have to say Kristin that I think the Origo is a great stove,just make sure it is off when you are finished .Fumes are a sign that the canister needs to be refilled,and only last a moment.I consider them a handy reminder.Watch out for old salts,they may have hardened (brain)artheries,from to much salt and not enough sailing.Cheers,Bill(ge)

135

(10 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Dacron(a pollyester) as opposed to nylon,good for dock lines.

136

(8 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Kristin.What make is your head.I might move mine  forward as well to free up that space.The brydon boy dosen't appear as if it will fit .Bill

137

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

with a boat this size the deckhead is going to get mighty warm but it should still be several hundreds of degrees cooler than what it will take to ignite,with a little distance.It's good to give some sober reflexion on modifing your boat,but if you've thought it thru,your informed by experience and you know what you like then the stock boat is just the beginning of an idea.Not everyone may like what you do,but its your boat  after all.recently a friend said I should just try adjusting to the boat for once.More power to those that can.

In B.C.,no documentation is required because they are usually under 10 H.P.I aquired a K number(B.C. registration)So I had a peice of paper to show when I go over the border plus I believe this creates a paper trail as far as leins and ownership go.

139

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

This is something I learned the hard way causing me no end of trouble after building and installing tanks in my last boat.If you do put an external vent in it should at all points be at least 30 degrees from the horizontal as fuel or water can fill the pipe creating a mysterious air lock that could stall your engine,even a big one when enough vacumn builds up.If fluids can stand in the vent pipe you will get airlocked.The more vertical the better.Amazing how something so seemingly trivial could shut you down.

140

(29 replies, posted in Cruising)

I am curious to hear how the 26 compares to the 32 ,especially after you have a few miles on it.Cheers,Bill.

141

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

It swings athwartships(side to side).Some other types swing in any direction,but that is likely overkill and requires a fair bit of room.With the Origo you need about five inches clear behind the stove so the bottom of the stove dose'nt catch the counter when the boat is heeled.You also need about two inches underneath.I dropped the top of the stove about two inches below the counter so it is easy to reach into the pot and steamy stuff is a tiny bit further from the deckhead.

142

(21 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

There in my friends computer just hav'ent had time togo back and send them.Soon.

143

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

If you want to sail to weather with a pot on the stove,gimbals are not an option.I 've almost finished rebuilding the galley to accept the gimballed single.It is now where the sink was and the sink has moved farther aft making the whole set-up much more user friendly,i.e. I don't have to lean over the stove to get at the sink.Also pot supports which you likely have.The Origo gimbals are very nice.My under standing is that diesel and wood stoves need a minium of three feet between the stove and deckhead or the deckiron could get dangerously hot.They pump out some serious heat.The closer to the sole the better so in theory they suck up cold air.

I used a Therma Rest matress in my last boat for the last few years I had it and this was the absolute end of condensation underneath.A boat I fished on had waterproof covers ,no condensation.I have seen a lot of B.S. solutions to this problem,none of which work.It seems that preventing the transfer of moisture is a good start in the comfort and dryness department.The closed cell foam sounds like a good idea.I have'nt checked to see if a therma rest will fit the contessa but if it does that could be my eventual up grade.They are an inflatable foam filled mattress.Cascade Designs is the company.

My experience suggests that getting air moving from end to end of the boat will keep the boat dryest.I'm not positive how it works but if there is one wet place in a poorly ventilated boat ,the whole vessel is affected.That midship hatch is a wonderful thing,a must have.The biggest challenge ia assembling and scribing the wooden base to fit.Burma teak is almost as expensive as a hatch,at $22.a board foot on the west coast,but anyone brave enough to cut a hole in the roof should have no problem putting saw to teak.It's hard to go over board on this ventilation thing,a much under talked about subject.

You need a good caulk and a primer as well to get a permanent bond to teak.291  Sika  is  excelent,tools with a soapy finger and cleans up with alachol.Masking tape is useful.The alachol retards the drying time,so minimize contact with the bead.In theory it will be easier to maintain the finish on the rail because you have a full film thickness running right up to the caulk,so that water can't saturate the wood and lift the finish.A good idea if you have the time to do it right.t has to be real clean in that crack before you squeeze anything in there.Preparation makes or breaks the  job.

147

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The hard dinghy bashing the hard boat all night gets old quick,however I still prefer them because they can be rowed ,a sublime act in my book.(read quiet).They can also be dragged over barnacles and such with some impunity and best of all ,Mine was $200. in perfect condition,with oars,Wow.I pull mine into the cockpit at night,or sometimes on to the fore deck.Works really well.

148

(4 replies, posted in Wanted)

Kristin,much of what you might want to know has been written about and crosses over from boat to boat,you just need to interpet the informationfor your situation.A little knowledge and a good deal of common sense will take you a long way.Some good authors that come to mind :Allan H. Vaites,Richard  Henderson,Dave  Gerr,Don  Casey,Bruce  Bingham and many others.There is literally a sea of good writing out there.I can't think of one book however that covers all the basics .Vaites book is a repair manual for fiberglass and will tell you more than you ever wanted to know even if you have no intention of tickling your boat with a grinder.Richard Henderson covers a fair bit of the big picture in a few books.Good old boat magazine is a good sorce for more general information on Contessa era boats.Hppe thats of some help.Don't worry it ain't rocket science.

149

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

It's pretty tough to squeeze a dinghy on to the contessa.The foredeck is the place but would make sail changes and anchoring difficult and maybe even dangerous.There may also be a problem heaving the boat to with that much windage forward.The room avaliable between the mast and companionway is shorter than any dink I know of.For now I am resigned to towing and maybe getting a rubber kayak or building a folding boat.I have a 6 foot dink ,about 35 pounds ,variously referred to as a Haida,Booth or Bosun.In truth I think it is a haida built by John Booth in Victoria and sold by Bosun's Locker.They used to be common around here before the invasion of the rubber boats.

150

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

With the farryman  7 H.P.The one time I checked I was cruising at 4+ knots on flat water,no tide and a not perfectly clean bottom.You should be able to get close to six knots  with that much power,but that is strictly just my opinion.