1

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I mounted my speakers in the mainbulkhead and the cd changer on the straboard side behind the ice box.  It all works well.  Without too much dificulty I can hear my music while motoring at fullspeed.  I used marine speakers and a marine stereo inside because of the amount of humidity in the air.  The speakers and radio should last a lot longer I hope than a standard car stereo for instance.

2

(8 replies, posted in Technical)

you could but you risk overheating.  It is very simple to remove the raw water intake off the valve and stick it in a bucket of water.  Using this method, running in neutral you can run it for as long as you would like to as long as you keep the bucket of water topped off.  Removing the impeller takes a significant amount of fiddling with small screws and you always risk having them swallowed up by the deep bilge(unless you have a speedseal).

Installing a second hatch above the galley is a little more involved than installing a vent.  I was considering installing a hatch there but the deck is not flat and it would be a significant amount of work to make it look good so I haven't yet. maybe this yr.  I have a vent above my galley but the vent is not very watertight.  When I have green water over the deck water drips down onto my stove.  The solar vents with fan cost about 220 bucks but you can buy a nice lewmar vent for about 40, that closes to be water tight.  I would definately look at the lewmar vents.

You should definetly use closed cell foam since it does not absorb water.  If your cushions absorb water good luck ever getting them to dry out enough to prevent mold and mildew.  Well, you might say they're down below how often will they get wet.  My cushions have had several very wet experiences, mainly from forgetin to close the thruhull on the sink while dippin the rail while sailing hard, but there is always a significant amount of condensation in my boat and it always seems like it is damp underneath the cushions.  In a marine environment closed cell foam is the only way to go.

5

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

I think you might have just stated your proplem.  Your NEW speed log may need calibration,  when I first installed my new knot meter I was gettin readings over a knot below my actual speed.  Have a look into that before you start calling marine engineers because that sounds expensive!!

6

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

most likely there will not be 2 knots of current in your marina!!

7

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

My 8.5 foot dinghy will fit on the foredeck however it weighs about 80 pounds and there is no room up there when i haul it on deck.  I bought it brand new in november 2004 off ebay from a supplier in the USA for $650.  It was made by mercury quicksilver with a plywood floor and 5 yr warranty.  No problems whatsoever so far.  They do make a smaller model but i think any smaller would be too small and you could not transport more than 2 people in it.

8

(0 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Does anybody have a trailer for sale or rent on the west coast that would be suitable for a contessa 26?

9

(4 replies, posted in Wanted)

I don't think there is an instruction manual for a old boat.  Maybe if you buy a brand new production boat it might come with an instruction manual but with an old boat you have to learn through experience and other peoples experience.

10

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

11

(8 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The room factor up near the head is lacking a bit i would say.  I don't think I would want to be stuck with the job of cooking up in that tight spot.

Propane is the best fuel in my opinion (well CNG I would prefer but it is impossible to refill anywhere).  The only proplem is that it is heavier than air but if you build a proper propane system there is no problem.  I would rather be blown up by my propane system then watch my alcohol stove burn my boat down slowly while my water still has yet to boil.

12

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I have a 8 foot inflatable that is very good.  I always tow it which is not the ideal situation but after towing over 2000 miles last summer I decided that it isn't too bad either.  I like the inflatable because it is safe entering and exiting and it is stable with multiple people in it.  I also use it to store light things in that take up a lot of space on board when traveling like crab traps.  If I deflate it it can easily be stored down below but pumping it up takes about 10 minues.  It is also nice when it is tied up next to the mother ship at anchor you don't need to worry about putting out fenders because there is no damage done when it bumps the hull.  The only downside I can think of is that it is not very fun to row but with a small outboard it will plane with 1 person in it no problem.

13

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I use cetol light on all my wood and i really like it for a couple different factors.  First of all, I think it looks very good.  It may not look as good as freshly varnished wood but after a couple of months the varnish wears a lot more then the cetol.  The cetol is super easy to apply and reapply.  I can redo all the bright work on my boat in about 1 hour and I do it once at the start of the season to make it nice for the season adn then again in the fall to protect it from the harsh wet winter weather.  If part of the finish gets damaged from excessive wear or fenders rubbing etc. with a quick hand sanding and a couple fresh coats of cetol it is impossible to see the repair, unlike with varnish which is super hard to touch up.  With regular maintenence(2 coats per yr) the wood shouldn't have to be scraped down to bare wood for a long time.

14

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

That seems super slower especially given the engine you have in there.  I cruise at 5.1 knots with a 1gm10.  If I crank the RPM's up I can go about 5.6 knots.  What RPM can you reach at full speed?  Sounds like to me that you have a prop issue.  I would think with the proper prop you should be able to make hull speed (about 6 knots) without too much trouble.

15

(9 replies, posted in For Sale)

16

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

lewmar or harken 16st is the proper size for the sheet winches.  They are the smallest self tailers both of those companies make.  Anderson makes a beautiful 14st that I am sure would be sufficent for the sheet winches.  Lewmar also makes a 14st that is not as tall as the 16 that would work for the cabin top winches.  For new winches your lookin at about 1200 big ones per set.  I almost replaced my sheet winches last year when i found a set of used harken 16st's for sale for 650 bucks but instead I replaced my broken roler furlling.  Another thing you could look at for your cabin top winches are those little plastic discs that go on top of non selftailers that turn them into selftailers.  I have seen them on other boats before but never used them myself but i understand they work well if you cleat the line after winching because they can slip sometimes.

17

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The nonskid has been painted but the rest of the deck is still gelcoat.  I renewed the gelcoat with rubbing compound and wax which worked very well.  I thought it needed to be painted at first but my friend who owns a marine store suggested heavy duty rubbing compound and wax which turned out a lot easier and probably gave a better result. 

I don't think it was ever listed on yachtworld, I bought it 2 days after it was listed on buysell.com but it is possible that it was on yachtworld in november 2004.

18

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

Mine is mounted on a swinging mount that swings from inside into the companionway.  It is mounted beside my sounder and works very well.  It is very easy to read and the weather doesn't take it's toll on it since it is sheltered.

19

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Those pictures are from the day I was buying it.  They are very out of date and a lot of things have been changed since they were taken, including the shorepower.  The power cord was coming in through the chain pipe and ran through the anchor locker to a heater on the floor.  It was a very low budget system.  There is now a proper shorepower plug and breaker panel with built in plugs which makes  the surveyer a lot happier!!!(he was not a big fan of the old setup)

20

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The dodger makes a difference in all conditions.  When it is raining you can put stuff like charts and binoculars or anything that is better off staying dry on the coachroof underneath the dodger and it doesn't get wet, it is close at hand and it is out of the way.  Also the dodger protects the door from getting rain inside and spray from wind/waves.  When it is windy and there is a sea running it helps keep the cockpit dry and it provides a spot underneath it to stay out of the wind and spray.  When it is sunny and hot, it provides shelter from the sun.  I can not think of a time when it is better to have no dodger.  It does restrict vision slightly but if you have a well designed dodger the visiblity is still fine.  The dodger on my boat has side handles to make it safe to navigate the side deck on the way to and from the foredeck.  When standing in the cockpit it is also a good thing to grab/lean on for stability.  When I was buying my boat I didn't think a dodger was mandatory, but since then I have experienced boats with and without dodgers and I now consider it a must on any serious cruising boat.

21

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Have you ever sailed before cole?  If you have then you would know why you would put a dodger on.  I would consider the dodger on my boat propably the most important part of gear.  With no dodger, when sailing with winds above about 8 knots you are goin to get wet and cold.  I personally would rather be dry and warm under the shelter of my dodger than be sitting out in the open cold wet cockpit.  There is a reason why 95 % of cruising boats have dodgers maybe you just need to experience the cold first hand.  If you are sailing in the tropics a dodger probably is not nescary but anywhere else it is pretty much mandatory if you want to do any serious sailing.

22

(9 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I believe there is no core so that should not be an issue.  I have never heard of any problems with the chainplates other then being leaky.

23

(4 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

I have never used the dickenson solid fuel heater but I have a friend who owns a marine chandlery and I spend a lot of time in there and he has sold lots of them to people who do not have propane on there boat or are on a tight budget.  He says he has had nothing but positive feedback from customers who have bought them.  He has a working display in his store with one mounted beside the equivalent dickenson propane heater and they both seem to give off good heat.  There is no fan in the wood stove so the heat doesn't travel as well but you could always install a fan beside the stove.  If I didn't have propane on my boat and I was shoping for a heater I would personally go for a diesel fired heater but since they are about 3 or 4 times the price of the solid fuel heater it seems like it would be a pretty good alternative.

24

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

lots of larger boats have travelers mounted on the deck in front of the sliding hatch so i don't think it would be impossible to make it strong enough, however i am not an engineer yet so i couldn't say for sure how strong it would have to be but i think it could be a good system.

25

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

If my boat didn't already have a nice soft dodger i would definately look into installing a hard dodger.  I think if you built it strong enough you could install a mainsheet traveller on the top of it and get rid of that garbage stock mainsheet setup.